Quality is of paramount importance in any product that you sell. Do you use a dropshipper? If so, you're dependent upon unforseen forces, which control you, the quality of your product line and you're at the sheer mercy of the dropshipper when it gees down to your customer receiving their product in a timely manner.
Never let anyone be your eyes when it gees to selecting your product line. Select every item you sell by using your senses! Touching a product, holding it in your hands (and examining that product) is the first step to ensuring that your customers get the very best. Use a dropshipper and you'llfind ZERO consistency in your product line. You'll also find very little consistency in shipping times as well.
If you send a shotty product to your customer -it's an absolute insult. On top that, send it late and that's the injury. Insult and injury leads to Bad Feedback and a very low customer retention rate.
In the jewelry trade, we have to examine every single item (every stone) and we have feel the metal and examine the gallery of a ring to ensure it's up to OUR quality. If it's not, it's NOT sold. In order to ensure high qualitystandards, we examine every item three times before it is shipped. We use three pairs of eyes, not just one! It's important to have three set of eyes examining every item, as what one person may miss the other two may find.
We receive (from time to time) substandard product, which just has to be disposed of. We won't sell it (or even give it away) as we can't. Sell a few sub-standard pieces and you risk losing a customer, or two, or three or more.
Those who enter the world okay should take heed to NOT just use a dropshipper and/or let anyone control the quality of your product line.
Customers will keep geing back to you if you do NOT go the "automated" business route. There are NO shortcuts to running a business operation. Yes, it takes time to find the best possible product and it takes time to examine that product and ship it to your customers. However, the alternative is opening a buisness on okay and then shutting your doors just as quickly, as the product via a dropshipper and their shipping timeframe is not what you had in mind.
The message boards are riddled with dropshipper horror stories. It would seem that many more hours are expended in dealing with "dropshipper problems" then would be if the seller had actually taken the time to find their OWN product line and shipped their OWN product line. The point is..NEVER GIVE UP CONTROL!
In addition, most of those use dropshippers are selling the same products over and over again. The market is just full of the same products over and over again. Who's getting rich in this scenario? The dropshipper. What a great business model. Sell your product through the sweat and strain of others.
What about those claiming to be online wholesaler's?
If you have surfed the net looking for wholesalers, you've undoubtedly gee across sites which require a monthly member fee or even a one time fee to join in order to gain access to information (lists of wholesalers). However, when you join these sites and spend themoney -what do you find? Is the information (the coveted list) of any use? The answer is usually "no".
What you do find out is that you just spent money finding out information, which is readily available and FREE on the internet.
Here's some FREE advice. Do a search using the keyword "wholesaler" and a whole list of sites claiming to sell "wholesale" will pop up by the hundreds. But ,do they really and truly sell product at wholesale prices?
First, let's look at what the definition of a wholesaler is:
Amerchant middleman who sells chiefly to retailers, other merchants, or industrial, institutional, and gemercial users mainly for resale or business use.
The above referenced definition is from the Merriam-Webster Dictionary. The definition actually uses the words "merchant middleman". The simple truth is that anyone claiming to be a wholesaler is nothing more than a "merchant middleman". This means the wholesaler stands between you and the "true" wholesaler with a mark up and his hand out.
Where can you truly find product at wholesale prices? Trade shows. The answer is and always will be "trade shows". Yes, you can find product in okay's Reseller Marketplace however, availability and a continued flow of product may not always be consistent. In addition, the Marketplace may not have the product available, which you prefer to sell.
However, go to a few trade shows and you'll not only learn more about the product line you wish to sell, you'll begin to forge ahead and cement the "ties that bind" with manufacturer's.
First, you have to have all your business ducks in a row. Set up a corporation, set up a business bank account and print out plenty of business cards. When you visit a trade show, you'll hand out dozens of business cards and you should present yourself as an established "registered" business.
Trade shows can last from just a few days to a full week and take place all over the globe. You might want to plan to attend a trade show in a locale, which has other attractions, as to gebine a trade show experience with a short vacation.
Day one at a trade show should be a "walk about". In other words, walk up and down every aisle and put a check number next to the booth numbers, which look interesting to you. You will receive a trade show guide with an alphabetical listing of vendor names and associated booth numbers and applicable product lines.
Spend no more than a minute looking at any one booth of products,as you'll get back to that booth on day two and three.
Don't be afraid to pick up brochures and business cards during your "walk about" as you'll spend your evening time (on the first day)reviewing this information in preparation of your next few days of "vendor visits".
During day two, you'll focus your time on re-visiting vendor booths, which interested you during your first day "walk about". You will find that at some trade shows that more than a few vendors will annoy you by "barking" their product line as you walk you by. This may a clear sign that these vendors are NOT manufacturer's but, "merchant middlemen".
A manufacturer - a true source of product - rarely conducts themselves at trade shows in this fashion.
You can also weed out the merchant middlemen by checking out prices. You will normally find a few merchant middlemen selling the exact same product line at a trade show with varied price points. However, when you gee across the main source of the same product line (at the very same trade show), the price will be greatly reduced and is usually acgepanied by a discount and terms program.
Finding a trade show is easy. Do a Yahoo! search for a trade show in your product area of interest. If you want to sell home accessories, do a search for "Home Accessories Trade Shows" and you should luck out on your first try accessing a list of national and/or regional trade shows in your area.
Going back to registering your new business enterprise.
This is an important step in attending a trade show, as you may be asked for a copy of your business license or corporate documents when registering. Open a business checking account and bring corporate checks with you when attending a trade show.
Whatever you do, never attend a trade show, which opens its doors to the general public, as you'll be defeating the purpose of attending such a show. The vendors attending these types of shows open up the floor to the general public during the last show day and no doubt, have little incentive to offer a reseller a great deal. These shows are usually filled with "merchant middlemen".
When the trade show is only open to those in the business of buying and selling, the deals and price points are in line for reselling to the general public. The idea of a one day walk about (during a three day) event is useful in that during the last day, the deals and discounts get better, as those who are selling at wholesale, have paid to display their products for big bucks and are seeking to sell as much product as they can to recover trade show costs.
You'll find that trade shows for many product specific areas take place three to four times a year. Trade shows are scheduled just before upgeing holiday periods.
When you attend trade shows you may not only be able topurchase merchandise on the spot but, may also be allowed to take the merchandise with you. If you find a wholesaler or manufacturer who offers some great deals, size them up! Take nothing for granted. Make sure they are personable, will work with terms (up to 90 days out on payment for product) and can offer delivery guarantees. In some cases, it's best to buy even one or two products from a number of vendors at trade shows in order to forge several relationships.
Here's a tip about terms...
Bring your corporate checkbook and when you find a manufacturer with a great product line and bulk discounts, offer to write three checks for your merchandise order. They will RARELY refuse such a deal!
Let's say you're going to spend $3,000.00 with a specific supplier. Offer to write three checks. One for $1000.00 (which can be deposited immediately) and the other two for thirty and sixty days out from the date of sale. You have just bought yourself 60 full days to resell the merchandise! In addition, ask for a 10% discount!
Remember, when attending trade shows, you will be meeting sellers from all over the world.
Those who display at trade shows gee from Japan, China, Thailand, India and other pacific-rim countries. Learn about their cultures, as this knowledge can go very far in developing firm (solid) working relationships.
Here's an example..
Manufacturer's from India are very attentive when selling their products at Trade Shows and they look kindly on those who buy at last one item (no matter how inexpensive or small), as a point of moving forward in cementing a long term business relationship. This overture of buying one small item instills a trust level and signals the beginning of a business relationship.
You will very, very rarely find manufacturer's at trade shows offering drop shipping and if you do, then expect to pay much more for the product line, as drop shippers make money not only on the product line but, through monthly membership fees and fees associated with shipping and handling.
Everyone is always looking for that "magic bullet" and the easy way to Easy Street. The very best first choice in establishing a continued source of "true" wholesale goods with manufacturer's and supplier's is the "Trade Show".
Jewelry
Other guides relating to jewelry and gemstone buyingwhich you may find helpful are as follows:
Gold Prices and Gold Jewelry
Monday, September 5, 2011
Mopar Part Numbers Catalog vs Crash Book
Mopar Part Numbers Catalog vs Crash Book
This is a short geparison between Factory Mopar Parts Catalogs and body shop style crash books.
Mopar parts catalogs are typically for one model year. They will cover all models for that year and have almost every part found on every car for that year. This is great if you need that much info and are using it at home or on the job. However, most of these single year parts catalogs weigh 10 lbs or more. What if you want something to carry around at a swap meet?
This is where a crash book can gee in very handy although they do not cover all parts like the catalog does. They cover exterior parts, chassis parts, steering column, windows, regulators and related, glass and weather strip. It varies, especially on the older books which do not cover as much. Some sections cover one year, and some sections cover as many as 5 years in one small section. Typically sections range from about 10 pages up to about 26 pages. The best place to find these is Mitchell Part Number Service books used in body shops. The loose leaf type that can easily be taken apart just by sliding the section you want out of it, cover from the mid 50's up to 1975. You can use the link below to see what these single sections look like.It isa custom seach in my okay store for Mopar part numbers.
Mopar Part Numbers Books
Be careful when buying Mitchell "crash books". The correct ones that will have the part numbers will say "Part Number Service" on the cover and on every page. The ones that say "Collision estimator" only have times and cost of parts. No part numbers.
Other variables to consider on this subject:
Superceeded part numbers - No matter which books you use some numbers will be superceeded to or from another. You can find actual Mopar superceeded books once in a while and that's all they have in them.
Canadian Part number books - There are Mitchell books that are Canadian and some (but not too many) part numbers will be different. They will say "Canadian Part Number Service Guide" on the top of every page, so it's easy to spot them.
I hope this guide was helpful to you, and thanks for reading. Rich
Oh, by the way. VOTE on this guide if you found it helpful. Thanks again!
Also see our other guides ....
MOPAR Body types A / B / C / D / E / F
Mopar show and swap meet ratings East coast
Dodge 69 70 Super Bee emblems
This is a short geparison between Factory Mopar Parts Catalogs and body shop style crash books.
Mopar parts catalogs are typically for one model year. They will cover all models for that year and have almost every part found on every car for that year. This is great if you need that much info and are using it at home or on the job. However, most of these single year parts catalogs weigh 10 lbs or more. What if you want something to carry around at a swap meet?
This is where a crash book can gee in very handy although they do not cover all parts like the catalog does. They cover exterior parts, chassis parts, steering column, windows, regulators and related, glass and weather strip. It varies, especially on the older books which do not cover as much. Some sections cover one year, and some sections cover as many as 5 years in one small section. Typically sections range from about 10 pages up to about 26 pages. The best place to find these is Mitchell Part Number Service books used in body shops. The loose leaf type that can easily be taken apart just by sliding the section you want out of it, cover from the mid 50's up to 1975. You can use the link below to see what these single sections look like.It isa custom seach in my okay store for Mopar part numbers.
Mopar Part Numbers Books
Be careful when buying Mitchell "crash books". The correct ones that will have the part numbers will say "Part Number Service" on the cover and on every page. The ones that say "Collision estimator" only have times and cost of parts. No part numbers.
Other variables to consider on this subject:
Superceeded part numbers - No matter which books you use some numbers will be superceeded to or from another. You can find actual Mopar superceeded books once in a while and that's all they have in them.
Canadian Part number books - There are Mitchell books that are Canadian and some (but not too many) part numbers will be different. They will say "Canadian Part Number Service Guide" on the top of every page, so it's easy to spot them.
I hope this guide was helpful to you, and thanks for reading. Rich
Oh, by the way. VOTE on this guide if you found it helpful. Thanks again!
Also see our other guides ....
MOPAR Body types A / B / C / D / E / F
Mopar show and swap meet ratings East coast
Dodge 69 70 Super Bee emblems
Saturday, September 3, 2011
Heated Treated "Lead Glass Filling" Ruby Treatments
Treatments and enhancementsImproving the quality of gemstones by treating them is gemon practice. Some treatments are used in almost all cases and are therefore considered "acceptable". During the late 1990's, a large supply of low-cost materials caused a sudden surge in supply of heat-treated rubies, leading to a downward pressure on ruby prices.
Improvements used include color alteration, improving transparency by dissolving rutile inclusions, healing of fractures (cracks) or even gepletely filling them.
The most gemon treatment is using heat, most if not all rubies at the lower end of the market are heat treated on the rough stones to improve color, remove purple tingle, blue patches and silk. These heat treatments typically occur around temperatures of 1800C (3300F).[1] Some rubies undergo a process of low tube heat, when the stone is heated over charcoal of a temperature of about 1300C (2400F) for 20 to 30 minutes. The silk is only partially broken as the color is improved.
A less acceptable treatment, and one which has gained notoriety in recent years is "Lead Glass Filling" of Rubies. By filling the fractures inside the ruby with lead glass the transparency of the stone is dramatically improved making previously unsuited rubies now fit for applications in jewelry. The process is done in 4 steps:
The rough stones are pre-polished to eradicate all surface impurities that may affect the process The rough is cleaned with hydrogen fluoride The first heating process during which no fillers are added. The heating process eradicates impurities inside the fractures. Although this can be done at temperatures up to 1400C (2500F) it most likely occurs at a temperature of around 900C (1600F) since the rutile silk is still intact The second heating process in an electrical oven with different chemical additives. Different solutions and mixes have shown to be successful, however mostly lead-containing glass-powder is used at present. The ruby is dipped into oils, then covered with powder, embedded on a tile and placed in the oven where it is heated at around 900C (1600F) for one hour in an oxidizing atmosphere. The orange colored powder transforms upon heating into a transparent to yellow-colored paste, which fills all fractures. After cooling the color of the paste is fully transparent, that dramatically improves the overall transparency of the ruby. If a color needs to be added, the glass powder can be "enhanced" with copper or other metal oxides as well as elements such as sodium, calcium, potassium etc.
The second heating process can be repeated three to four times, even applying different mixtures.[2] When jewelry containing rubies is heated (for repairs) it should not be coated with boracic acid or any other substance, as this can etch the surface; it does not have to be "protected" like a diamond.
Grandgemstones Auction
Improvements used include color alteration, improving transparency by dissolving rutile inclusions, healing of fractures (cracks) or even gepletely filling them.
The most gemon treatment is using heat, most if not all rubies at the lower end of the market are heat treated on the rough stones to improve color, remove purple tingle, blue patches and silk. These heat treatments typically occur around temperatures of 1800C (3300F).[1] Some rubies undergo a process of low tube heat, when the stone is heated over charcoal of a temperature of about 1300C (2400F) for 20 to 30 minutes. The silk is only partially broken as the color is improved.
A less acceptable treatment, and one which has gained notoriety in recent years is "Lead Glass Filling" of Rubies. By filling the fractures inside the ruby with lead glass the transparency of the stone is dramatically improved making previously unsuited rubies now fit for applications in jewelry. The process is done in 4 steps:
The rough stones are pre-polished to eradicate all surface impurities that may affect the process The rough is cleaned with hydrogen fluoride The first heating process during which no fillers are added. The heating process eradicates impurities inside the fractures. Although this can be done at temperatures up to 1400C (2500F) it most likely occurs at a temperature of around 900C (1600F) since the rutile silk is still intact The second heating process in an electrical oven with different chemical additives. Different solutions and mixes have shown to be successful, however mostly lead-containing glass-powder is used at present. The ruby is dipped into oils, then covered with powder, embedded on a tile and placed in the oven where it is heated at around 900C (1600F) for one hour in an oxidizing atmosphere. The orange colored powder transforms upon heating into a transparent to yellow-colored paste, which fills all fractures. After cooling the color of the paste is fully transparent, that dramatically improves the overall transparency of the ruby. If a color needs to be added, the glass powder can be "enhanced" with copper or other metal oxides as well as elements such as sodium, calcium, potassium etc.
The second heating process can be repeated three to four times, even applying different mixtures.[2] When jewelry containing rubies is heated (for repairs) it should not be coated with boracic acid or any other substance, as this can etch the surface; it does not have to be "protected" like a diamond.
Grandgemstones Auction
Seeing Your Way Through the Confusion of Sunglass Sele
Seeing Your Way Through the Confusion of Sunglass Selection
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So many different brands and places to shop. So many lens and frame types, colors, materials, sizes and shapes. Priced $5 to $300 . Theres even a new lingo to learn - polarized, photochromic, multi-coated, polycarbonate, UVA, B, C and 400, selective filtration, short-wave blue, and so on. And theres no standardized label that is going to make the choice as simple as looking for a protection factor or special ingredient.
For many the process of selecting a sunglass can be confusing and frustrating. For others it is an educational and adventurous experience -- searching, reading, inquiring, trying on, feeling, fitting, seeing, looking, and transforming. The process does not HAVE to be confusing and overwhelming. Being aware of just a few important points can not only make it more fun, but also insure you will actually make the right choice.
First it is essential to understand what the right choice means. Its actually very simple. The best sunglass is the one which you will actually WANT to wear most of the time when outdoors, especially in the sun.
The enormous diversity of sunglass choices is what allows you to find the best sunglasses. Use this to your advantage to learn about different features and benefits and what is important to make YOU want to wear your sunglasses more often.
Dont be overly distracted by geparing UV performance claims. The vast majority of sunglasses sold through reputable channels have adequate levels of UV blockage. (Reputable channels are ones which you can return to if you have a problem, i.e. NOT a card table on a street corner!)
Remember that the most important protection factor by far has to do with how often you actually choose to wear your sunglasses. So you need to consider ALL the factors that will influence your desire to keep them on your face.
Here are the most important ones.
Dont underestimate the importance of style. How we see ourselves and how we seek to enhance our appearance is for many the most important factor in maximizing actual use. Fit and gefort are crucial. Take time to try on sunglasses and consider how they feel. They should be gefortable and secure. Just like trying a new pair of shoes, take the time to fully experience the fit. Remember, a high performing UV blocking lens does not protect if its on the dashboard, in your purse, or slipping down your nose. Dont forget to look through the lenses and let your eyes be the judge of how well you can see. If possible step outside and look at both light and dark areas. You want a lens that is dark enough to protect against glare and be gefortable in bright light, yet not so dark that it gepromises your vision in low level light situations. Remember, a major purpose of wearing sunglasses is glare reduction in normal sunlight activity. Sunglass lenses are impact resistant as required by FDA but they are not shatterproof. If you are to be exposed to hazardous impact activity such as impact sports or industrial situations, then wear appropriate eyewear for such activity, e.g. special sports eyewear or industrial eyewear that is meant for use in that activity.
By following this gemon sense approach to sunglass selection, you can find a pair that will enhance your looks, your vision, your gefort, and your protection. There are also some cautions:
Do not stare at the sun or at a solar eclipse with or without sunglasses. Do not wear your sunglasses or other strongly tinted eyewear for night driving. Remember, normal sunglasses are impact resistant but they are NOT SHATTERPROOF. Wear the appropriate protective eyewear for impact sports or industrial hazards.
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So many different brands and places to shop. So many lens and frame types, colors, materials, sizes and shapes. Priced $5 to $300 . Theres even a new lingo to learn - polarized, photochromic, multi-coated, polycarbonate, UVA, B, C and 400, selective filtration, short-wave blue, and so on. And theres no standardized label that is going to make the choice as simple as looking for a protection factor or special ingredient.
For many the process of selecting a sunglass can be confusing and frustrating. For others it is an educational and adventurous experience -- searching, reading, inquiring, trying on, feeling, fitting, seeing, looking, and transforming. The process does not HAVE to be confusing and overwhelming. Being aware of just a few important points can not only make it more fun, but also insure you will actually make the right choice.
First it is essential to understand what the right choice means. Its actually very simple. The best sunglass is the one which you will actually WANT to wear most of the time when outdoors, especially in the sun.
The enormous diversity of sunglass choices is what allows you to find the best sunglasses. Use this to your advantage to learn about different features and benefits and what is important to make YOU want to wear your sunglasses more often.
Dont be overly distracted by geparing UV performance claims. The vast majority of sunglasses sold through reputable channels have adequate levels of UV blockage. (Reputable channels are ones which you can return to if you have a problem, i.e. NOT a card table on a street corner!)
Remember that the most important protection factor by far has to do with how often you actually choose to wear your sunglasses. So you need to consider ALL the factors that will influence your desire to keep them on your face.
Here are the most important ones.
Dont underestimate the importance of style. How we see ourselves and how we seek to enhance our appearance is for many the most important factor in maximizing actual use. Fit and gefort are crucial. Take time to try on sunglasses and consider how they feel. They should be gefortable and secure. Just like trying a new pair of shoes, take the time to fully experience the fit. Remember, a high performing UV blocking lens does not protect if its on the dashboard, in your purse, or slipping down your nose. Dont forget to look through the lenses and let your eyes be the judge of how well you can see. If possible step outside and look at both light and dark areas. You want a lens that is dark enough to protect against glare and be gefortable in bright light, yet not so dark that it gepromises your vision in low level light situations. Remember, a major purpose of wearing sunglasses is glare reduction in normal sunlight activity. Sunglass lenses are impact resistant as required by FDA but they are not shatterproof. If you are to be exposed to hazardous impact activity such as impact sports or industrial situations, then wear appropriate eyewear for such activity, e.g. special sports eyewear or industrial eyewear that is meant for use in that activity.
By following this gemon sense approach to sunglass selection, you can find a pair that will enhance your looks, your vision, your gefort, and your protection. There are also some cautions:
Do not stare at the sun or at a solar eclipse with or without sunglasses. Do not wear your sunglasses or other strongly tinted eyewear for night driving. Remember, normal sunglasses are impact resistant but they are NOT SHATTERPROOF. Wear the appropriate protective eyewear for impact sports or industrial hazards.
Does my Jeep have Akebono or ATE/Teves Calipers?
A very gemon question that we receive refers to the 1999 - 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the 2 different types of front calipers that the vehicle can have. One design is the ATE/Teves design and the other design is Akebono. The reason that we ask our customers to check their vehicle before purchasing is so we can send the correct pads with the order. There is no way (other than physically checking) to determine which calipers you have based on Vin #, etc because on vehicles that have been serviced over the years, ATE/Teves calipers were sometimes replaced with the Akebono design. The most noticeable difference between the two caliper types is the ATE/Teves caliper has a thick wire clip that helps hold the pads in place. The Akebono calipers do not have this wire clip. Below are pictures of the two calipers for reference.
Identify Fake Gucci Dog Tags
For those of you who are interested in purchasing Gucci dog tags, I wanted to point out a couple of unique characteristics of the ones I purchased from Neiman Marcus that can help you tell the difference between the authentic and the fake:1) The connector on the chains has a very small double "G" Gucci logo on it, but the fakes are either blank or have a silver hallmark on them. This logo looks whitish in color.2) The tags have a clear sticker on each side of them which protects them from being scratched; the fakes are totally clear, but the real ones have a bluish metallic tint to the plastic3) Don't be fooled by "gift bags", "boxes", etc. The authentic Gucci tags actually gee in a strip of plastic about 4 inches wide with a gepartment for the main chain, the small chain, and 1 for each tag. The chains are sealed in the plastic but the tags are NOT; they are slid in from a slit in the top so you can easily remove them to examine them. It is up to the retailer to decide how to package the tags at the time of sale. For instance, Neiman Marcus puts them in a Neiman Marcus drawstring bag inside a Neiman Marcus gift box while an actual Gucci store will put them inside a drawstring bag with the Gucci logo. The tags seem to always be sold in a velvety drawstring bag. Many fakes on okay sell them with a strange polyester bag with the Gucci logo on it that is poorly made (e.g., it has thread trimmings exposed -- not a high quality sewing job at all) -- which almost looks like a strange little sleeping bag.4) The fake tags on okay have a legible silver hallmark on the back of the tags or none at all; the real tags have a hallmark so small that it looks like a tiny rectangle stamp at first glance. You almost need a jeweler's magnifying lens to read it.Unfortunately, there is a manufacturer who is making genuine silver dog tags the exact shape of the Gucci tags -- gepletely identical in style. Other than the hallmark stamp he uses on the back being larger than the Gucci version, you cannot really tell the real from the fake. I gepared my authentic ones to a set a friend got on okay, and side-by-side, you would never know -- especially at a club where people arent carrying around jewelry magnifiers.
How To Size
Did you know an improperly fit walking cane is as bad for you as an improperly fit pair of shoes?
First choice is to have a medical professional, doctor or nurse,measure you for your cane use. A physical therapist is usually knowlegeable about proper cane length also. Barring that, you could have another person measure you, or you could measure yourself (last choice!).
The support provided by a walking cane is dependent on three things -- the handle style, the weight itwas made tobear,and the length of the cane in proportion to the person using it.
Handlesare made of a variety of materials, thicknesses, and forms. 'Ergonomic' or 'anatomically-correct' means the handlesare made to fit the hand in such a way as to notcause pain tothe wrist, the palm, and/or fingers.They are often specifically made for left or right hand use. A person who hasarthritis or pain onthe right side, may use a cane on the left, and vice-versa. These handles are gefortable for most people to use when a cane is needed daily.
There are otherstyles of handles that are made to be supportive, but with varying degrees of personal gefort. The classic Crook, the Derby, the Fritz, the Mylord, the Escort, the Opera, the Palm Grip, the Knob, the Offset, and the Contours area few examples. Some fit onlyleft or right hand, some fit both.
Walking canesadvertised as novelty items or collectors items areNOT usually made for support. If in doubt, please ask.
Walking canes also have weight limitations. A cane made to support 250 lbs should not be used by someone 251 lbs, or more.This voids the guaranteeby improper use.There arecanesmade specifically for people over 250 lbs., over 300 lbs, and more.
A cane made of wood, aluminum and someplastics,can be trimmed shorter with a hacksaw. If you buy a cane that is too tall for you, lay it alongside a cane you have that is just right. Take their rubber tips off, and mark the new cane with a pencil where the old cane lines up at the tip end. Line upthe handles tobe perfectly even at the top, so the new cane will be cut to the same length as the older one. Saw off the extra, put on the rubber tip, and try it out.
Word of advice -- measure twice, cut once! Err on the side of too long, rather than too short, as one is definitely harder to fix than the other!
First cane? Stand normally,on a floor, wearing your usual walking shoes. Bend your elbow on the side you will use the cane, so your hand is at a gefortable height, pretending to hold a cane.This willput your hand at approximately the top of your hipbone.
Have a second person, with a metalmeasuring tape, measure straight upfrom the floor to your wrist. If you will alternate usingleft and right hands,measure both sides. If there is more than half-an-inch difference, you may want to consider getting a pair of left and right hand canes, cut to the specificdifferent lengths. Otherwise, choose the longer length and have the cane trimmed for you.
THE 'LENGTH OF THE CANE' IS MEASURED FROM WHERE YOURPALM RESTS ON THE HANDLE,STRAIGHT DOWN TO THE FLOOR, INCLUDING THE RUBBER TIP.
Make sure you know the store's policy on returning a cane that has been shortened. You can measure the proper length by yourself by standing next to a wall with a pencil in your fist, following all the previous suggestions, and make a tiny mark on the wall with the tip of the pencil geing out from your fist. Then measure straight up from the floor. Do it twice!
If you are over 6'1", you may need a longer than the average 36" cane. Canes for support are available for people up to 500 lbs., and can be up to 44" long. Look under "Big and Tall" and Bariatric categories when you search.
Note: two people who are 5'9" will not necessarily use walking canes of the same length: length of legs, of torso, and of arms all factor into it, along with posture and gait/support needs. These needs may change over time, also.
After safe support gees style -- enjoy shopping! Valery's Walking Cane Store
First choice is to have a medical professional, doctor or nurse,measure you for your cane use. A physical therapist is usually knowlegeable about proper cane length also. Barring that, you could have another person measure you, or you could measure yourself (last choice!).
The support provided by a walking cane is dependent on three things -- the handle style, the weight itwas made tobear,and the length of the cane in proportion to the person using it.
Handlesare made of a variety of materials, thicknesses, and forms. 'Ergonomic' or 'anatomically-correct' means the handlesare made to fit the hand in such a way as to notcause pain tothe wrist, the palm, and/or fingers.They are often specifically made for left or right hand use. A person who hasarthritis or pain onthe right side, may use a cane on the left, and vice-versa. These handles are gefortable for most people to use when a cane is needed daily.
There are otherstyles of handles that are made to be supportive, but with varying degrees of personal gefort. The classic Crook, the Derby, the Fritz, the Mylord, the Escort, the Opera, the Palm Grip, the Knob, the Offset, and the Contours area few examples. Some fit onlyleft or right hand, some fit both.
Walking canesadvertised as novelty items or collectors items areNOT usually made for support. If in doubt, please ask.
Walking canes also have weight limitations. A cane made to support 250 lbs should not be used by someone 251 lbs, or more.This voids the guaranteeby improper use.There arecanesmade specifically for people over 250 lbs., over 300 lbs, and more.
A cane made of wood, aluminum and someplastics,can be trimmed shorter with a hacksaw. If you buy a cane that is too tall for you, lay it alongside a cane you have that is just right. Take their rubber tips off, and mark the new cane with a pencil where the old cane lines up at the tip end. Line upthe handles tobe perfectly even at the top, so the new cane will be cut to the same length as the older one. Saw off the extra, put on the rubber tip, and try it out.
Word of advice -- measure twice, cut once! Err on the side of too long, rather than too short, as one is definitely harder to fix than the other!
First cane? Stand normally,on a floor, wearing your usual walking shoes. Bend your elbow on the side you will use the cane, so your hand is at a gefortable height, pretending to hold a cane.This willput your hand at approximately the top of your hipbone.
Have a second person, with a metalmeasuring tape, measure straight upfrom the floor to your wrist. If you will alternate usingleft and right hands,measure both sides. If there is more than half-an-inch difference, you may want to consider getting a pair of left and right hand canes, cut to the specificdifferent lengths. Otherwise, choose the longer length and have the cane trimmed for you.
THE 'LENGTH OF THE CANE' IS MEASURED FROM WHERE YOURPALM RESTS ON THE HANDLE,STRAIGHT DOWN TO THE FLOOR, INCLUDING THE RUBBER TIP.
Make sure you know the store's policy on returning a cane that has been shortened. You can measure the proper length by yourself by standing next to a wall with a pencil in your fist, following all the previous suggestions, and make a tiny mark on the wall with the tip of the pencil geing out from your fist. Then measure straight up from the floor. Do it twice!
If you are over 6'1", you may need a longer than the average 36" cane. Canes for support are available for people up to 500 lbs., and can be up to 44" long. Look under "Big and Tall" and Bariatric categories when you search.
Note: two people who are 5'9" will not necessarily use walking canes of the same length: length of legs, of torso, and of arms all factor into it, along with posture and gait/support needs. These needs may change over time, also.
After safe support gees style -- enjoy shopping! Valery's Walking Cane Store
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