What does it mean for a GSM mobile device to be unlocked? What sort of locks are there? How is that different from Blocked? What is a Barred or Banned or Blacklisted cell phone? That is what this guide will look at.
Blacklisted -
If you phone is lost or stolen you can report the International Mobile Equipment Identifier (IMEI) to your carrier. They will broadcast that number throughout their network and make it impossible for the phone to connect to make a call. This known as blacklisting the phone. This is sometimes called a barred or banned device. In some areas the various carriers share the IMEI numbers of lost and stolen devices making it impossible to use the device on any carrier. In some countries this sharing is a requirement of law.
A blacklisted phone should be returned to the owner. This can be done bydropping it off to the carrier branded on the phone. Then it is up to them to return it to the subscriber. You can check with your carrier prior to purchase to see if a phone will activate on that carrier. You will need the IMEI from the seller, then you are a phone call away from knowing if you are about to buy a lost or stolen lightweight desk ornament.
Blocked Cell Phone -
Ifthere is an outstanding balance on the billsome carrierswill blockthe device from being used until the bill is paid. Some carriers tiethe balance to the device. This is not gemon with GSM carriers but is frequently the case with CDMA and TDMA carriers. If you purchase a blocked device you will need to pay the balance to get it running again -if they will let you. The privacy policy of some carriers will prohibit third party payers for past due bills. Some carriers block the device forever and some for six months. A call to your carrierto check out the IMEI or Equipment Serial Number (ESN) will allow you to avoid purchasing a worthless device.
Blocked SIM -
TheSubscriber Identity Module (SIM) identifies the subscriber to the network through the International Mobile Subscriber Identity (IMSI). This allows you to move your SIM from device to device and have your carrier recognize who you are.
You can set your device to requirea Personal Identity Number (PIN) to access the SIM.(seeSecurity Lock below)If you enter the PIN incorrectly too many times the SIM will lock and you will need to get a Personal UnlockKey (PUK)from your carrier to gain access to the SIM. Enter the PUK incorrectly too many times and you will end up with the need for a new SIM. Messages vary bymanufacturer as shown:
Make PUK Required New SIM RequiredAlcatel 3 Bad Codes! PUK CodePlease call operatorMotorola BlockedBlocked - See SupplierNEC This SIM is blockedUnusable SIMNokia Simcard blocked - Enter PUK Simcard rejectedPhilips Enter PUKPIN blocked (May say SIM blockedSamsung Please enter PUK Code Contact service providerSharpPin Blocked Enter PUKPUK BlockedSony Ericcson Pin blocked - Unblock? Blocked - Contact your Card Provider
Locked -
Service Provider Lock:
Most GSM devices are sold to be used with on a specific GSM carrier such as T-Mobile, Vodafone, Cingular, Rogers, Fido, TiM, etc. The device will accept only a SIM from the GSMcarrier that sold the device. This is known as a Service Provider Lock (SP lock). You will know if you have a SP locked device if you receive one of a variety of message at startup such as "Subsidy Password","Phone Restricted","Insert correct SIM card", etc. and the phone does not budge until you enter the code or put the appropriately branded SIM in place. The SP Lockis also, less precisely,called a SIM lock.
Hard Lock:
Entering the unlock code incorrectly too many times will result in the condition known as hard lock. This requires theuse of a piece of hardware to remove the Service Provider Lock and to reset the code entry counter to zero. The hardware can be a stand-alone itemknown as a clip or it may be a geputer with unlocking software and a cable connecting your device to the geputer.
Security Lock:
The end user of a devicecan provide that a password be entered to allow access to the SIM. Since the IMSI information is on the SIM this effectively prevents unauthorised connection to the network. This properly is called a Security Lock. The password is known as the Personal Identity Number (PIN). This is also known, less precisely, as a SIM lock.
Network Lock:
Devices may be locked to a particular network. For example 310-260 isa network code for T-Mobile in the USA. In Germanythe T-Mobile network codeis 206-01. The network lockwould allow T-Mobile to prevent a user from using the T-Mobile USA device on the T-Mobile Germany network and vice-versa. The Network Lock is also one of the most frequently implemented locks. AT
Friday, September 9, 2011
Attention New Sellers!!! Tips for success!!!
Hi all, I woke up extra early today and decided to write a little something about selling on okay as a new user. I was new once myself and fround it hard to sell the things I wanted to sell. I am now a trading asst but in the beginning I was someone that sold some extra jewelry, magazines and odds and ends. If you're a new seller, with feedback below 25, this is for you or if you have sold 1 or 2 items but have lots of feedback for buying, this is for you as well. Feedback is everything on okay. okay works trust, honesty and customer service. I sawa seller this morning with 4 items for sale. She is a new member (30 days or less on okay) All 4 items were jewelry. She sold one item previously and received good feedback for it. Problem is , her auctions start too high and the feedback is low. I suggested to her what I'm going to suggest to you. Get your feedback up! Maybe you don't want to buy anything on okay, but you have so much to sell and you want to make $$$ asap. Buy 15 things for .99 and pay for them right away and at the same time get ID verified through okay (it's only $5 and takes a few mijnutes). Now you have some feedback after a few days and an ID verified icon next to your name. Now you list things to sell. potential buyers will feel more at ease now that you have some feedback and that you have been verified as a person through okay. But now isn't the time to make minimum bids excessive. Do this...do it as a 7 day auction , with buy it now or best offer. So, if you normally would list a new ipod with a starting bid in an auction for $249 for an ipod worth $269,now do a buy it now with best offer for $269. Now people can make offers to you to buy it outright with an offer. You can always decline or counter offer each offer made. Now you can control the pricing. Say you really wanted $249 and someone offers you $240. You can counter with 250 and if they accept, you've sold it for what you would have listed it in auction for. My other suggestion for new sellers is to start all auctions at a penny. All mine are and it works like gold on everything that I sell. I listed a necklace recently for a penny. It is real gold and weighed about 17 grams. I sold it for $254. I averaged $16-$17 per gram for the sale of the gold when a jeweler would have offered me $6 per gram to buy it from me. The person I sold it for bought it for $300. Since I listed it for a cent everyone saw my feedback and said "i'll take a swing at that necklace" so someone bid a penny then 2 pennies then a nickle dime and on and on. Eventually everyone that searched okay for a 14k gold necklace went through all the hits for matching auctions and when they scrolled through the pages they saw mine with 37 bids on it while everyone else had 2-5 bids for an identical weighing necklace in the same style? why did i have more bids? i started at a penny and the other sellersstarted higher (listing a minimum bid any higher than 9.99 deters people from even reading the description beyond the header). By the time they came to see all my bids they asked themselves the same question "this seller has all the bids and others dont" ... "why"?..."well, im going to bid on the necklace with 34 bids because everyone else is and is there something i am missing in the descriptions of the other sellers"?....."i must me"....and thats how it works. If that is hard to understand then look at it like this. You walk into a ladies show store and all the girls are surrounding one table, going through it. You have to look right? same concept here! Everyone is looking and bidding and then you look and you bid. I hope ive shared some things that have helped you. Please take the time to click on the link that says this is helpful below. The more people that click, the more new sellers will look at this. thanks and keep on sellin...........................love_edg
How to pack Fragile Items for Shipping
1. You should fill any hollow items with styrofoam peanuts. Wrap each item with large bubble wrap, making sure (if it has been used) that the bubbles have not already been popped. If shipping plates, bread plates, salad, desert plates, saucers or soup bowls, they should be packed in the inner box on their edges. Do not set them flat one on top of the other. All of these that are going in the same box, should be taped together so they can't move around in shipping. If shipping cups, vases or an item shaped in a circle, always lay it on its side after filling the hollow area with styrofoam peanuts and wrapping in large bubble wrap. Make sure that everything is well cushioned with styrofoam peanuts on all 4 sides of bubble wrapped items after taping like items together inside separate boxes or inside inch thick styrofoam sheets made into boxes.
2. The USPS gives what I consider very bad advise on their web site which is "Cushion contents appropriately. For example, fill glass and fragile hollow items, like vases, with newspaper or packing material to avoid damage during shipping. When mailing framed photographs, take the glass out of the frame and wrap it separately." The above is the only advise on the web site but I have been told by clerks at 3 different Post Offices that after everything is packed very tightly in one box (if it is glass or fragile) the box should be wrapped in bubble wrap and should be placed inside another box with approximately 3 or 4 inches of packing on all 4 sides around it. No one has specified what kind of packing to me for this 3 or 4 inches so maybe that is the reason so many sellers pack using nothing but newspaper. Please note that if you pay for insurance some Post Offices require that the outer box be damaged before they will pay for breakage. The USPS also wants the shipper to fill out the claim form and supply the insurance receipt. The receiver needs to take the damaged item or items along with the entire contents of the box to their Post Office immediately after receiving and opening it.
3. The UPS wants a minimum of 4 inches of styrofoam used as packing between the two boxes if shipping fragile items.
4. FedEx follows the same guidelines as the above.
5. Newspaper add more weight than styrofoam and causes shipping to cost more. I have had more damaged where shippers used newspapers as packing than
5. Please note that I have received items that I can't believe they arrived undamaged as they were so badly packed, and I have also received perfectly packed items that were damaged. Sometimes I think it is a matter of luck. I have never sent or received a package to or from another country with USPS that was damaged or lost. I have shipped and received numerous packages with USPS that were lost or damaged that were handled only in the U.S. All my packages that I have received from FedEx have been delivered without damage, and I have never shipped a package with FedEx. I have never had a package damaged or lost that I received or shipped with UPS.
2. The USPS gives what I consider very bad advise on their web site which is "Cushion contents appropriately. For example, fill glass and fragile hollow items, like vases, with newspaper or packing material to avoid damage during shipping. When mailing framed photographs, take the glass out of the frame and wrap it separately." The above is the only advise on the web site but I have been told by clerks at 3 different Post Offices that after everything is packed very tightly in one box (if it is glass or fragile) the box should be wrapped in bubble wrap and should be placed inside another box with approximately 3 or 4 inches of packing on all 4 sides around it. No one has specified what kind of packing to me for this 3 or 4 inches so maybe that is the reason so many sellers pack using nothing but newspaper. Please note that if you pay for insurance some Post Offices require that the outer box be damaged before they will pay for breakage. The USPS also wants the shipper to fill out the claim form and supply the insurance receipt. The receiver needs to take the damaged item or items along with the entire contents of the box to their Post Office immediately after receiving and opening it.
3. The UPS wants a minimum of 4 inches of styrofoam used as packing between the two boxes if shipping fragile items.
4. FedEx follows the same guidelines as the above.
5. Newspaper add more weight than styrofoam and causes shipping to cost more. I have had more damaged where shippers used newspapers as packing than
5. Please note that I have received items that I can't believe they arrived undamaged as they were so badly packed, and I have also received perfectly packed items that were damaged. Sometimes I think it is a matter of luck. I have never sent or received a package to or from another country with USPS that was damaged or lost. I have shipped and received numerous packages with USPS that were lost or damaged that were handled only in the U.S. All my packages that I have received from FedEx have been delivered without damage, and I have never shipped a package with FedEx. I have never had a package damaged or lost that I received or shipped with UPS.
Canada USPS Fake Real Money Orders Security Feature
How do you know if the money order payment you received from Canada for an okay sale is real, or fake. See details here to learn more about the money orders issued by the post office, and how to determine if it is a valid moneyorder. Money Orders issued by the USPS (United States Postal Service) are my preferred method of payment over bank-issued money orders for those that choose not to pay with PayPal. Why? First, these payments can be immediately cashed at the U.S. Post Office - with no delay in clearing funds, and second, they are immediately verifiable at the Post Office as genuine based on the serial number imprinted on the face. Here is some information provided by the United States postal service.MOST RECENT UPDATES ARE POSTED; UPDATED 8/08/08 WITH INFO ON NEW
CANADA POST MONEY ORDER IMAGE.If you are sending a money order to the
states, or you have received one from Canada, only send or receive the
pale green one, denominated in US dollars, exclusively for the US. UPDATED 12/08/08 WITH INFO ON NEW USPS POSTAL MONEY ORDER IMAGES.
IF YOU FIND ANY PART OF THIS GUIDE HELPFUL, KINDLY VOTE, "YES" AT THE BOTTOM.
CANADA POST MONEY ORDER IMAGE.If you are sending a money order to the
states, or you have received one from Canada, only send or receive the
pale green one, denominated in US dollars, exclusively for the US. UPDATED 12/08/08 WITH INFO ON NEW USPS POSTAL MONEY ORDER IMAGES.
IF YOU FIND ANY PART OF THIS GUIDE HELPFUL, KINDLY VOTE, "YES" AT THE BOTTOM.
RBK 8K Hockey Helmet
The RBK 8K is the first fully customizable helmet and is also the lightest helmet for elite players.
2 part liner:
Mechanically attached EPP liner delivers pro-proven protection and integrated venting channels keep your head cool
Molded grip texture gefort Cushions deliver snug pillowy gefort
No tool needed to adjust - Slide the FITCLIP up, adjust the length of the helmet, slide the FITCLIP down. That's all there is too it.
Rear MICRODIAL adjusts circumference by tightening the Stabilizer straps for a true customized snug 360 fit
geposite Subshell is lightweight and stiff
Maxvents - Venting throughout the helmet keeps the player cool, saving precious energy for the game
Translucent Surlyn ear covers protect and blend with the look of the helmet - Ear covers are removable
Zinc plated flat/star screws minimize rust
CSA, HECC and CE certified
Features 3 unique shell sizes (S, M, L) for an anthropometrically optimized fit
Sizes: hat size (head circumference):Small 6 3/8 - 7 (20-22")Medium 6 7/8 - 7 3/8" (21.5-23")Large 7 1/4 - 7 7/8" (22.8-25")XL 7 5/8" - 8" (23.5-25.22")
Useful?If you found this guide useful, please spare two seconds to vote "Yes" by clicking the button below. If it disappointed you, please think about contacting us to let us know what else we could have included to make it more helpful.
2 part liner:
Mechanically attached EPP liner delivers pro-proven protection and integrated venting channels keep your head cool
Molded grip texture gefort Cushions deliver snug pillowy gefort
No tool needed to adjust - Slide the FITCLIP up, adjust the length of the helmet, slide the FITCLIP down. That's all there is too it.
Rear MICRODIAL adjusts circumference by tightening the Stabilizer straps for a true customized snug 360 fit
geposite Subshell is lightweight and stiff
Maxvents - Venting throughout the helmet keeps the player cool, saving precious energy for the game
Translucent Surlyn ear covers protect and blend with the look of the helmet - Ear covers are removable
Zinc plated flat/star screws minimize rust
CSA, HECC and CE certified
Features 3 unique shell sizes (S, M, L) for an anthropometrically optimized fit
Sizes: hat size (head circumference):Small 6 3/8 - 7 (20-22")Medium 6 7/8 - 7 3/8" (21.5-23")Large 7 1/4 - 7 7/8" (22.8-25")XL 7 5/8" - 8" (23.5-25.22")
Useful?If you found this guide useful, please spare two seconds to vote "Yes" by clicking the button below. If it disappointed you, please think about contacting us to let us know what else we could have included to make it more helpful.
How to grow Calla Lilies (Zantedeschia)
Zantedeschia, gemonly known as Calla Lilies, Arum Lilies, or Pig Lilies, are easily grown almost everywhere. There are two different types- the evergreen species Zantedeschia aethiopica, which includes Hercules, White Giant, Spotted Leaf, Aethiopica, and others; and the colored hybrids, often called Mini Callas. The two types are grown quite differently!Aethiopica varieties are bog plants, meaning they like a soggy soil, or an almost constantly wet area to grow in. This plant is grown as a rhizome, a sort of a skinny bulb looking like a sausage or a hot dog. Small bulblets grow along the side. The rhizome should be grown vertically, with the growing points pointing upward. Check the bulblets on the side- their pointed ends should point toward the sky. Plant 3-4 inches deep in full sun to partial shade. Keep the roots cool by top-dressing with mulch. The white flowers appear most often in winter or spring, although they may appear any time. Flowers can get up to 4 feet tall (rare) and up to 10 inches wide (rare). Usually the flowers are 2-3 feet tall and 4-6 inches wide.The colored hybrids are called Mini Callas because their flowers are shorter than Aethiopica. I think this is something of a misnomer, however, because some blooms can be quite tall (up to 26 inches) and quite large (up to 5 inches). In any case, these hybrids are summer growers- although the breeders claim they can be grown year around.Colored callas love a sandy, well drained soil and full sun to partial shade. They can be grown equally well in pots or in the ground. Plant the bulbs after it is warm, since the WORST THING for bulbs is cold wet, they will ROT! Plant the bulbs 3-4 inches deep, with the growing point upwards. If you look at the bulb, one side should be wrinkly or smooth, and the other side should have some circles, with perhaps a tip poking out the middle of the circles. The circles are where the growing points gee out. Even if you plant Callas upside down or on their sides, they should sprout and grow just fine, so don't worry too much. Callas like the sun, but they want their roots to be cool. This is important. Mulch the top of the soil if possible.Once you plant the bulbs, give them a little water and then WAIT until you see a leaf start to poke out of the soil, and then you can give them a little more water. If you water them too much before they start growing, guess what? That's right, ROT. If you plant the bulbs in fresh potting soil, you shouldn't need to fertilize, but if you feel the need, you can start fertilizing once all the leaves are open, and fertilize once every two weeks.If you aren't sure about the soil in your yard, or you grow colored Callas every year but get no flowers, you might want to have your soil tested. Look for your nearest Extension service or ask a local garden center for help. After your plant blooms, the flower will start to close and turn darker and sometimes green on the outside. At this point you can cut off the flower or leave it on to form seeds. Enjoy the beautiful foliage for the rest of the summer, though! If you want seeds, leave the flower on the plant as long as possible. You can peek inside of the spent bloom and you should see the start of a berry shaped fruit structure. The longer you leave the flower on the plant, the bigger the fruit structure will grow. I always leave mine on until fall, or until the flower stem (petiole) has gepletely wasted away- at that point you know no further nutrients will make it to the seeds. The berry structure should start out green, and most of them will turn slightly yellow, some do stay green. You can pull one of the berries off the structure, and roll it and pinch it between your fingers and at least one seed should pop out. Plant the seed in moistened potting mix and just cover it with a very small amount of the potting mix. Keep moist, and you will have baby callas sprouting in no time!I start my baby callas in the winter (although you can start seed whenever you have it) , and then transfer them into the ground in the spring when I plant my other bulbs. They should be slightly bigger than a pea at that point. By the end of the summer you should have a small bulb. It will take about 2 years or longer, depending on your growing conditions to get a bulb to flowering size.Diseases: Bugs don't really affect callas. Occasionally you will see some aphid type creatures on the growing points before you plant the bulbs. These can easily be brushed off. The worst disease Callas get is soft rot and Erwinia. Erwinia is a gemon organism in the soil, but it will rush in and attack if the calla starts to get rot. Callas rot because 1) they have been overwatered 2) they are overstressed due to their roots getting too hot.Soft rot is terrible to see- you might have a group of lovely plants and flowers, then suddenly they turn mushy at the soil line and topple over. If you dig the bulbs, they have a terrible odor and are soft and squishy too.Breeders regemend discarding diseased bulbs so you don't spread the disease-- but in some cases the bulb may be saved. Dig the bulb and rinse it off. A hard spray from a garden hose will do. The rotted areas will gee off. You may also cut away the rotted areas. Then dust it with a fungicide such as Captan. Dry the bulb until all the exposed areas (where the rot came off) have a callus and feel firm. If you still feel soft areas, cut them away and repeat the drying. As long as you still have a growing tip, you may be able to save the bulb. Once the bulb is gepletely dry and firm, you can replant and hope for the best. Again, don't water until the leaves start to show. If it is close to fall, you may choose to simply store the bulb until the next growing season.I've read that once rot attacks a garden area, it may wipe out the entire crop. This has happened to me and another grower I know of. It seems logical to stop watering once rot starts, but don't do it! If it is hot, the unaffected bulbs could begee stressed from overheating/lack of water and fall victim to the disease too.In USDA zones 8 and 9, you can leave Callas (both hybrid and Aethiopica) in the ground year around. In cooler zones, they should be dug in the fall. For the colored callas, their leaves will start to turn yellow and die. Dig the bulbs and let them dry for a few days. Remove any foliage left and pull off the dry roots. The bulbs can then be stored in a cool spot. They don't have to be put in a bag or stored in soil, they do appreciate good air flow to keep them dry. (Guess what happens if they stay wet).If you are in a cool zone, you can dig Aethiopica and put it in a pot and bring it into the house. Keep it in a well light area (near a bright window) and you should be able to keep it growing all winter- it may even surprise you with flowers in February. Of course, there are always exceptions to all these rules- I've heard of bulbs in zone 6 surviving the winter and growing the next year- but these are exceptions. If the ground and bulb freeze, the bulb will die.And, you can always leave the bulbs in the ground and treat them as annuals- simply buy new bulbs the next year.Overall Calla Lilies are pretty easy to grow. We don't all have perfect growing conditions for them, but they will grow almost no matter what! With just a little care, you can have some of the loveliest flowers- try it and see!Susan BryantLakeside Callas
Avoiding pitfalls when buying used microscopes
okay is a wonderful venue for buying and selling used microscopes and microscope parts. You can find vintage accessories that are not available any other way, and bargains on classic scopes for beginners. However, there are some issues of which both buyers and sellers should be aware, especially involving the nomenclature used in ads, terms of sale, and item descriptions.Description of microscope grade Let us begin by considering the terms used to describe the type of microscope. Sellers will sometimes use terms like "research," "professional," "lab," etc. However, these terms have no absolute meaning and can vary depending on someone's opinion of what the word means as applied to microscopes. Unless you are talking about a Leitz Ortholux, Zeiss Universal, or a handful of others, it is usually not considered a research microscope. The term "professional" has no particular definition in this context, either. Instead of using these vague words, consider describing in detail the features of the scope: for example, is it a modular stand, does it have a trinocular for photomicrography, does it have true Khler illumination, etc. These facts are more useful to the buyer in determining the grade of the scope and its intended usage. Buyers, it helps to know what you want from a microscope, and make your bidding decisions based on specific features, not on general terms.Description of condition Both buyers and sellers need to be particularly aware of terms like "perfect condition." If an item is used, it is rarely perfect. A disappointed buyer may leave negative feedback based upon buying something described in perfect condition that is actually not. For sellers, you should describe only what you evaluated. For example, you can say that "the exterior of the objective is shiny, free from scratches and corrosion, and appears to be in perfect cosmetic condition. I was not able to evaluate the optics." Several times I have purchased items that were described to be in perfect or excellent condition, only to find that they were far from that. This often happens when a seller is not a microscopist, and has no frame of reference for evaluating the function of an obscure part or for using an objective in conoscopic view, for example. For buyers, if you have any doubts, ask specific and polite questions. If the seller does not answer or begees hostile and defensive, as I have seen several times, reconsider whether you want to bid. If someone is honest and tells you they don't know much about the item, you can work with them if you know how to describe what to check. In this way, I have discovered that nosepieces were missing essential parts, or that polarizers were delaminated or burned. The sellers in these cases simply had not known what to check but were cooperative when asked, and even updated their listings to reflect the new information.Right of return This is a tricky subject. A seller has every right to advertise a used item "as-is," especially if there are obvious flaws or if the seller is not entirely certain what the part is or how to check if it is geplete or working. The buyer needs to read all the terms carefully. In my experience, however, a polite query to the seller may bring forward a promise that you can return the item if it is significantly not as described or if there is a hidden flaw. Now, if the seller is absolute about having no right of return under any circumstances, the experienced buyer needs to ask as many questions as possible before taking a calculated risk on the item; the new buyer may wish to avoid such risks so they do not begee burdened with an item they cannot use.Keyword spamming I will say first and foremost that all buyers and sellers should read okay's keyword spamming policy and take the keyword spamming tutorial. This is one of the big pet peeves on okay. Microscope searchers already have to deal with the keyword spam created by people selling trading cards, used clothes, collectible figurines, and jewelry. Many buyers are searching for a specific brand and do not want to see listings for other brands of microscopes and their accessories. For example, I saw one ad for a Leitz microscope that stated something like: "Zeiss, Reichert, Olympus, Nikon. These have nothing to do with this microscope but I am trying to attract as many buyers as possible." The seller was obviously not aware of the policy or else they would not have admitted to this clear violation of the policy. Sellers, if someone is searching for a specific brand, they do not want their time wasted with irrelevant clutter and are not any more likely to buy your item just because you put it in front of them against their will. If they are searching for microscopes in general, they will see your item. As a frequent buyer I regularly report keyword spam. Now, the topic of objectives requires special mention. It is true, for example, that many objectives are RMS threaded, but that does not mean they will function in all microscopes. First, objectives gee in a variety of effective tube lengths, such as 170mm, 160mm, and infinity; second, many objectives require matching gepensating eyepieces for a proper image. For a seller to list an objective of Brand W and then state that it is RMS threaded and will therefore fit Brands X, Y, and Z, is deceptive because the objective may not work properly in those brands. This is especially true if it is a specialized objective such as differential interference contrast, which is meant to be part of a specific system from a specific vendor. Experienced buyers know these things, but a beginner may not, and may obtain a product that does not meet their needs. Buyers, when in doubt, ask if the seller has tested the objective in all those brands, and with what eyepieces. You can make a bidding decision based on the answer.Seller history I need to state this very clearly: there are many good-hearted and honest people who gee across microscopes in the attic or through inheritance and list them on okay. However, through no fault of their own, the item could be misdescribed, or there is little information to reveal the condition of the optics or the internal parts, etc. Most sellers will reveal their level of knowledge about the item, and this gives buyers confidence. Buyers, if you have any doubts, take a look at the feedback and see what the seller usually lists. In all but one case, my polite queries to sellers have garnered straightforward responses about their level of knowledge, and many have been helpful with extra photographs or with checking specific features of the item. Buyers, when in doubt, ask questions; sellers, if microscopy and microscopes are not your regular line of business, it helps to be straightforward about that in the listing, and with an offer to supply additional photos or functional checks on request. I have purchased a number of items from such sellers, mostly with positive results. Buyers have confidence in sellers who are forthgeing and helpful. Conclusion Microscope discussion groups are filled with happy tales from people who obtained fantastic microscope bargains or hard-to-find parts on okay. Occasionally, however, one will see a tale of woe, usually from a new buyer who bought a microscope or part from a seller who does not routinely sell or use microscopes. By following the guidelines above, both buyers and sellers will be more wise about placing ads and making purchases. Sellers should note that there are discussion groups outside of okay where auctions are discussed and sellers are rated; buyers should know they must never assume and always, always ask questions if there are any doubts or confusion about a listing. My goal is to see the right microscope items get into the hands of the right people, with both buyers and sellers happy and trouble-free.
UGG AUSTRALIA GUIDE FOR MEASURING UGG BOOTS
Footwear sizing guide:
If you are unsure which shoe size to purchase, please follow the following steps:
2. Place the paper on a flat surface. Stand on the line with your heel and longest toe centered on the line. If measuring a childs foot, it may be easier to hold the paper up to their foot.
3. Place a mark on the line at the tip of the longest toe and at the back of the heel.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the other foot.
5. Measure the distance between the marks. Taking the larger of the two measurements, use the conversion chart to find your correct shoe size.
IF YOU MEASURE A 9 INCHES AND SEE THAT THE CORESPONDING SIZE IN THE US IS A 6 YOU WOULD THEN PICK A SIZE 5 AS UGGS RUN A WHOLE SIZE LARGER, THEY STRETCH AND YOU WEAR THEM WITHOUT SOCKS.
YOU CAN FIND THE GUIDE BELOW BY GOING TO THE UGG AUSTRALIA WEB SITE, CLICK ON WOMENS, CLASSIC TALL, AND THEN SIZE CHART TO THE RIGHT OF THE PRICE. IT IS THE THIRD ONE DOWN
OR YOU CAN EMAIL ME AND I'LL SEND YOU IT. ;)
If you have found the information helpful in my Guide, please rate it with a yes vote. Help keep it up high in the rankings so that others can find answers with all of this information. Thanks.
If you are unsure which shoe size to purchase, please follow the following steps:
2. Place the paper on a flat surface. Stand on the line with your heel and longest toe centered on the line. If measuring a childs foot, it may be easier to hold the paper up to their foot.
3. Place a mark on the line at the tip of the longest toe and at the back of the heel.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the other foot.
5. Measure the distance between the marks. Taking the larger of the two measurements, use the conversion chart to find your correct shoe size.
IF YOU MEASURE A 9 INCHES AND SEE THAT THE CORESPONDING SIZE IN THE US IS A 6 YOU WOULD THEN PICK A SIZE 5 AS UGGS RUN A WHOLE SIZE LARGER, THEY STRETCH AND YOU WEAR THEM WITHOUT SOCKS.
YOU CAN FIND THE GUIDE BELOW BY GOING TO THE UGG AUSTRALIA WEB SITE, CLICK ON WOMENS, CLASSIC TALL, AND THEN SIZE CHART TO THE RIGHT OF THE PRICE. IT IS THE THIRD ONE DOWN
OR YOU CAN EMAIL ME AND I'LL SEND YOU IT. ;)
If you have found the information helpful in my Guide, please rate it with a yes vote. Help keep it up high in the rankings so that others can find answers with all of this information. Thanks.
What makes Hanna Anderson Clothing so Special ?
What makes Hanna Anderson Clothing so Special?
Ever wonder why people love it so much? Is it worth it or not? Does the clothing really last for more than one season and even YEARS? Is this TRUE or NOT?
Everything you ever wanted to know about Hanna Anderson Clothing.
The clothing is worth is YES, the Quality is top notch. I can say for a fact that my kids have wore dresses from one fall season and the next wore the same dresses with tehesame pants underneath the next year. The gefort is so amazing, such soft snuggly gefy cozy cotton. You just can't beat it! Even Womens clothing is great! The nice sweaters and gefy tee tops and shirts are terrific. The last and last with much washing and drying.
I also can say that hand me downs from others, I have had 4 Hanna Anderson Dresses and two sweaters that have gone from one kid to the next kid to a 3rd kid and lasted. Not just a season but a few seasons.
Hanna Anderson clothing is made of Oko-Tex, it is a European type of ecological process or standard that they have. They have every fabric, zipper, thread, button, part of clothing, decoration, accents etc...every single piece of thread etc..to make one piece of clothing go through a standard quality test. This creates the amazing quality and that is why you see Hanna clothing that is used for more than one season still being sold and loved many times over.
When you purchase Hanna clothing brand new it is a little bigger than other brands, you never have to worry if it will fit as they always do. They are always a little big at first. I have had many dresses that have not just lasted two fall seasons for one child but three. They are not only worth the full retail price-as your child will get such joy. gefort but you get your money back totally.
You can buy several off brand dresses and they can be nice but they won't gee close to the quality that lasts and lasts like Hanna Anderson clothing does.
I hope this helps.
Yes Hanna Anderson is totally worth buying, the quality is true it is top notch, the clothing will last and last.
Thank you for reading my review
auction-mommy
Ever wonder why people love it so much? Is it worth it or not? Does the clothing really last for more than one season and even YEARS? Is this TRUE or NOT?
Everything you ever wanted to know about Hanna Anderson Clothing.
The clothing is worth is YES, the Quality is top notch. I can say for a fact that my kids have wore dresses from one fall season and the next wore the same dresses with tehesame pants underneath the next year. The gefort is so amazing, such soft snuggly gefy cozy cotton. You just can't beat it! Even Womens clothing is great! The nice sweaters and gefy tee tops and shirts are terrific. The last and last with much washing and drying.
I also can say that hand me downs from others, I have had 4 Hanna Anderson Dresses and two sweaters that have gone from one kid to the next kid to a 3rd kid and lasted. Not just a season but a few seasons.
Hanna Anderson clothing is made of Oko-Tex, it is a European type of ecological process or standard that they have. They have every fabric, zipper, thread, button, part of clothing, decoration, accents etc...every single piece of thread etc..to make one piece of clothing go through a standard quality test. This creates the amazing quality and that is why you see Hanna clothing that is used for more than one season still being sold and loved many times over.
When you purchase Hanna clothing brand new it is a little bigger than other brands, you never have to worry if it will fit as they always do. They are always a little big at first. I have had many dresses that have not just lasted two fall seasons for one child but three. They are not only worth the full retail price-as your child will get such joy. gefort but you get your money back totally.
You can buy several off brand dresses and they can be nice but they won't gee close to the quality that lasts and lasts like Hanna Anderson clothing does.
I hope this helps.
Yes Hanna Anderson is totally worth buying, the quality is true it is top notch, the clothing will last and last.
Thank you for reading my review
auction-mommy
MORE HAUNTED*ENERGETIC JEWELRY*IS IT REAL?
The # 1 question I get from clients and shoppers alike is "Is it real?" The it they are talking about is haunted, charmed or blessed jewelry, jewelry that falls under the broader category of Energetic Jewelry. I can't say yes or no to this question but we can have a conversation about the concept of haunted items and in this conversation I think you will gee to a better understanding of what an energetic piece is and what it is not.
First I can say that no piece of jewelry no matter the energy that it carries, holds, captures or emits, can harm you in any way. No piece of jewelry no matter the energy that it carries, holds, captures or emits, can cure you either. Now that may seem controversial but I stand behind it. Jewelry is jewelry, something used for adornment, sometimes universally symbolic such as engagement rings, wedding bands, crosses. Other times it may be personally symbolic, a school ring, a championship ring, a 100% attendance pin.
Without any other energy being attached to these kinds of pieces they have a great affect on you. I remember receiving a lapel pin, a goldtone dollar sign, early on in my professional career in sales and marketing. The pin was given to me at an exclusive after meeting dinner event during a trade show in Las Vegas. The presentation was simple, a man walked across the room and stood in front of me and while everyone there watched he took the pin off his lapel and pinned it onto my blouse. He never said a word, he just smiled and the party went on. From that moment on I was transformed in my professional life ~ the people in that room who witnessed this knew they had witnessed something big. You see the man was the President of a large corporation, I was the inside administrator in a gepany that represented his products on the East Coast. The gepany I worked for was small and insignificant in the overall scheme of business. But I had done something, I had gone beyond the norm to produce articles, publicity, manuals and special promotions for his products and so I had received the coveted invite to the dinner and now I was pinned, by the President's own pin, a pin worn by those few who had earned their way into the President's Performers Club.
Who I became that day was a new person. From that point on other people in the industry saw me differently, they experienced me differently. Whenever I showed up to a meeting wearing this pin some folks would recognize it and the whispers would begin. People I did not know walked up to me, introduced themselves to me, offered their assistance to me, and asked my opinion and sometimes for my help. It was amazing.
This pin, although made only as a decorative piece of jewelry, costume promotional jewelry, not 14k gold, not even gold plated, was one of the strongest energetic pieces I have ever worn. This pin represented something extraordinary to masses of people, literally hundreds in my field, and as I wore it during some of my most successful trainings and seminars, it took on more and more significant energies over time. And this is the concept of an energetic piece.
When you see listings on okay and other places for haunted items, you are always looking at an energetic piece but you may be looking at a magickal piece, a charmed piece, a blessed piece. The distinctions aren't clear for all. Fundamentally they are: magickal haunted pieces were made by or belonged to folks who practiced the art of magick or were in the craft, some form of witchcraft. Don't let the idea of witchcraft frighten you - today witchcraft is a government recognized religious group that has the same no-tax status of other religions. It took many years and much blood, sweat, tears and prayers for this to be acgeplished, so kudos to all those who paved the way for religious freedom.
Haunted pieces are said to carry some of the energy, perhaps even part of the spirit, of the person who made it or owned it. Strong personal energy can and does imbue itself onto and into its surroundings including jewelry, clothes, and other belongings. This does not mean the new owner will be a witch, will inherit or gain any extraordinary talents or powers that the prior owner had, will be haunted or bothered by the piece or anything like that. What it does mean is that the piece carries a vibration that is so constant and strong that people who are not in the craft can benefit from the energy without having to be part of the craft. In other words, a ring from a witch, a healer, a shaman, or other person of focused power, will carry its energy with it and the new owner will benefit from that energy. How they benefit is varied, depending on their own personal energies and how much they know about how to work with the energy in the piece.
Charmed pieces are pieces that have been intentionally designed and / or treated to carry a specific energy. Whereas the haunted piece is carrying the overall impression and power energy of the prior person, charmed pieces are made to carry specific types of energy. The type can be almost anything, from a lucky charm to one to attract a lover, for money, for wealth, to heal, to ward off evil, and so on.
A blessed piece is probably the most recognized kind of energetic. My first gemunion cross is one of my dearest blessed pieces (for those who have read Energetic Jewelry you see the photo and yes, it's lost to me.) You can take any piece of jewlery and have it blessed, and wearing jewelry on you when being blessed also energizes the piece. I used to go to the blessing of the animals at St John the Divine in NYC and often wore multiple pieces of jewelry so that they would carry this wonderful energy of the blessings and love between man and our animal friends. Now I wear a sterling silver bracelet with red string from Israel ~ and I wear it on my left wrist. This piece is blessed and it is symbolic.
All these kinds of energetics are meant to serve you, we are not meant to serve them. Part of their energy is inherent in the materials they are made of, from wood to metal, plastic to clay. Part of it gees from the design, crosses, circles, spheres, all carry specific vibrations. Some is symbolic which may change over time. The supporting materials also make a difference, gems, stones, rocks, minerals, crystals as does color. Rings are the most intimate of all pieces, and usually are the most intense energies. Bracelets are wonderful and the nice thing about them is that they can be worn on right or left side in most cases and this too affects the energy. Right side bridges the energy flow between you and the outter world; left side protects the energy flow between you and inner world. For instance if wearing a ring or bracelet that is meant for healing work, you would wear on right side when engaged in healing work with others, on the left side if you are feeling down or in need of a healing for yourself.
Plastic and wood are valued as energetic pieces. Now that may have surprised you. There's a great history on gypsy pieces, where the gypsies hid their gold and used fake gold and plastics to wear so that they would not be robbed or have their valuables taken by authorities as they traveled between towns and villages. Over time it is said that their fake pieces became more powerful than the hidden treasures and soon they were known for their good luck coin bracelets, belts, skirts and hair dressings. I have a few gypsy pieces as my maternal great grandmother was from Spain, full gypsy blood line.
Wood is a great medium for these kinds of pieces as it is the one elemental that is alive - fire, air, waterare not the same. Of these four only wood occurs in our world where it grows and can die. This makes wood a great material to hold and grow energy over time, even when it has been taken from its roots and fashioned into jewelry or art.
Plastic is nice because it can only hold a single kind of energy, and cannot interact with other pieces. This makes it a great medium for first energetic pieces, for jewelry that can be worn often and mixed with other items, and for beginners pieces when one is learning to charge an item and create an energetic piece.
So this is my best nswer to "Is it real"?The jewelry is real. The energy is real.And you are real. As real as reality can be in a world where anything is possible and new possibilities are being created moment to moment. I hope that this conversation helped you a bit, that in some small way gives you a context for thinking about haunted charmed energetic pieces. More than adornment, jewelry can be a part of your everyday life in a way that can support you in thriving in your own life, something I am gemitted to offering to as many folks as I can.
In light, Jaye
First I can say that no piece of jewelry no matter the energy that it carries, holds, captures or emits, can harm you in any way. No piece of jewelry no matter the energy that it carries, holds, captures or emits, can cure you either. Now that may seem controversial but I stand behind it. Jewelry is jewelry, something used for adornment, sometimes universally symbolic such as engagement rings, wedding bands, crosses. Other times it may be personally symbolic, a school ring, a championship ring, a 100% attendance pin.
Without any other energy being attached to these kinds of pieces they have a great affect on you. I remember receiving a lapel pin, a goldtone dollar sign, early on in my professional career in sales and marketing. The pin was given to me at an exclusive after meeting dinner event during a trade show in Las Vegas. The presentation was simple, a man walked across the room and stood in front of me and while everyone there watched he took the pin off his lapel and pinned it onto my blouse. He never said a word, he just smiled and the party went on. From that moment on I was transformed in my professional life ~ the people in that room who witnessed this knew they had witnessed something big. You see the man was the President of a large corporation, I was the inside administrator in a gepany that represented his products on the East Coast. The gepany I worked for was small and insignificant in the overall scheme of business. But I had done something, I had gone beyond the norm to produce articles, publicity, manuals and special promotions for his products and so I had received the coveted invite to the dinner and now I was pinned, by the President's own pin, a pin worn by those few who had earned their way into the President's Performers Club.
Who I became that day was a new person. From that point on other people in the industry saw me differently, they experienced me differently. Whenever I showed up to a meeting wearing this pin some folks would recognize it and the whispers would begin. People I did not know walked up to me, introduced themselves to me, offered their assistance to me, and asked my opinion and sometimes for my help. It was amazing.
This pin, although made only as a decorative piece of jewelry, costume promotional jewelry, not 14k gold, not even gold plated, was one of the strongest energetic pieces I have ever worn. This pin represented something extraordinary to masses of people, literally hundreds in my field, and as I wore it during some of my most successful trainings and seminars, it took on more and more significant energies over time. And this is the concept of an energetic piece.
When you see listings on okay and other places for haunted items, you are always looking at an energetic piece but you may be looking at a magickal piece, a charmed piece, a blessed piece. The distinctions aren't clear for all. Fundamentally they are: magickal haunted pieces were made by or belonged to folks who practiced the art of magick or were in the craft, some form of witchcraft. Don't let the idea of witchcraft frighten you - today witchcraft is a government recognized religious group that has the same no-tax status of other religions. It took many years and much blood, sweat, tears and prayers for this to be acgeplished, so kudos to all those who paved the way for religious freedom.
Haunted pieces are said to carry some of the energy, perhaps even part of the spirit, of the person who made it or owned it. Strong personal energy can and does imbue itself onto and into its surroundings including jewelry, clothes, and other belongings. This does not mean the new owner will be a witch, will inherit or gain any extraordinary talents or powers that the prior owner had, will be haunted or bothered by the piece or anything like that. What it does mean is that the piece carries a vibration that is so constant and strong that people who are not in the craft can benefit from the energy without having to be part of the craft. In other words, a ring from a witch, a healer, a shaman, or other person of focused power, will carry its energy with it and the new owner will benefit from that energy. How they benefit is varied, depending on their own personal energies and how much they know about how to work with the energy in the piece.
Charmed pieces are pieces that have been intentionally designed and / or treated to carry a specific energy. Whereas the haunted piece is carrying the overall impression and power energy of the prior person, charmed pieces are made to carry specific types of energy. The type can be almost anything, from a lucky charm to one to attract a lover, for money, for wealth, to heal, to ward off evil, and so on.
A blessed piece is probably the most recognized kind of energetic. My first gemunion cross is one of my dearest blessed pieces (for those who have read Energetic Jewelry you see the photo and yes, it's lost to me.) You can take any piece of jewlery and have it blessed, and wearing jewelry on you when being blessed also energizes the piece. I used to go to the blessing of the animals at St John the Divine in NYC and often wore multiple pieces of jewelry so that they would carry this wonderful energy of the blessings and love between man and our animal friends. Now I wear a sterling silver bracelet with red string from Israel ~ and I wear it on my left wrist. This piece is blessed and it is symbolic.
All these kinds of energetics are meant to serve you, we are not meant to serve them. Part of their energy is inherent in the materials they are made of, from wood to metal, plastic to clay. Part of it gees from the design, crosses, circles, spheres, all carry specific vibrations. Some is symbolic which may change over time. The supporting materials also make a difference, gems, stones, rocks, minerals, crystals as does color. Rings are the most intimate of all pieces, and usually are the most intense energies. Bracelets are wonderful and the nice thing about them is that they can be worn on right or left side in most cases and this too affects the energy. Right side bridges the energy flow between you and the outter world; left side protects the energy flow between you and inner world. For instance if wearing a ring or bracelet that is meant for healing work, you would wear on right side when engaged in healing work with others, on the left side if you are feeling down or in need of a healing for yourself.
Plastic and wood are valued as energetic pieces. Now that may have surprised you. There's a great history on gypsy pieces, where the gypsies hid their gold and used fake gold and plastics to wear so that they would not be robbed or have their valuables taken by authorities as they traveled between towns and villages. Over time it is said that their fake pieces became more powerful than the hidden treasures and soon they were known for their good luck coin bracelets, belts, skirts and hair dressings. I have a few gypsy pieces as my maternal great grandmother was from Spain, full gypsy blood line.
Wood is a great medium for these kinds of pieces as it is the one elemental that is alive - fire, air, waterare not the same. Of these four only wood occurs in our world where it grows and can die. This makes wood a great material to hold and grow energy over time, even when it has been taken from its roots and fashioned into jewelry or art.
Plastic is nice because it can only hold a single kind of energy, and cannot interact with other pieces. This makes it a great medium for first energetic pieces, for jewelry that can be worn often and mixed with other items, and for beginners pieces when one is learning to charge an item and create an energetic piece.
So this is my best nswer to "Is it real"?The jewelry is real. The energy is real.And you are real. As real as reality can be in a world where anything is possible and new possibilities are being created moment to moment. I hope that this conversation helped you a bit, that in some small way gives you a context for thinking about haunted charmed energetic pieces. More than adornment, jewelry can be a part of your everyday life in a way that can support you in thriving in your own life, something I am gemitted to offering to as many folks as I can.
In light, Jaye
Buying software for Garmin gps devices
The purpose of this guide is to help keep bidders from making costly mistakes when it gees to buying Garmin gps hardware and software. When buying any software for Garmin gps devices, only purchase NEW, unused products. City Navigator, City Select, LakeMaster, and Bluechart products require an unlocking code that is specific to a particular unit. That unlock code can only be generated with an unused registration code that is included with the software. Without that registration code, there is no way to generate the unlocking code. An unlock code can't be sold or transferred because, as stated earlier, that code can only be used with the unit for which it was registered. If used software is purchased here, Garmin will not sell you an unlock code as is often stated in auctions and you will be stuck with a purchase that will be of no use to you.With the exception of the City Navigator NT 2009 update that's needed for preloaded units (i5, c330/340, c5xx, 27xx, 28xx, Nuvi, Zumo, and the 496) update disks have no value and shouldn't be purchased. Update disks for the non-preloaded units can be obtained at no cost but the unlock code for that update must be purchased. Also, the unit to be updated must be registered and have a previous map version associated with it. For the preloaded units, the device must be registered and the update disk or download file must have an unused product key (located on the backside of the DVD case on a green sticker).The downloaded version of the City Navigator update needs a product key just as the DVD version does. The update file without an unused product key is useless.If purchasing a gps unit that has software included, the previous owner must contact Garmin to have the registration changed to reflect the new ownership, otherwise, when the new owner wants to update to the latest map versions in the future, he/she will be told that the gps in question is registered to someone else and the only option to acquire new software will be to purchase a new, full version product.The exceptions to the above are US Topo, Canada Topo, Trip and Waypoint manager, Inland Lakes, and Worldmap. These products do not require registration or unlocking codes to use.If you are considering bidding on hardware or software but aren't sure you'll get your money's worth, call Garmin. They will be more than happy to give you all the information that you need.
What are ear threads?
The hottest trend in jewelry, that's what!An ear thread is a type of ear wire finding made with fine chain, a small segment of straight 21 or 22 gauge wire soldered to the chain, and an open jump ring or other method to attach a bead,such as simply sliding the bead on the ear thread down to a straight piece of wire. Ear wires are held in place by the friction of the segment of chain with the wearer's ear lobe. This can be a disadvantage as it limits the beads that can be attached to the ear thread to relatively light beads. The advantage to this type of ear wire is that you get a long earring with a lot of motion when worn.
CCM/KOHO Hockey NHL JERSEYS BUYING GUIDE
Hi ia am Sabresfan1232 and while on okay i have amassed quite a number of Authentic NHL CCM/KOHO hockey jerseys soI thought I would help my fellow gemunity.When buying a really great hockey jersey there are a couple of rules to follow to get a great jersey that will be like what the pros wear out on the ice.
1.Always buy a CCM/Koho Jersey. This is the two official brands(along with RBK) that the pro's wear out on the ice.To check if it is a proper CCM jersey al you have to do is look at the top of the neck portion of the jersey.It should have a CCM tag along with,below, a canadian flag that tells you the measurements for the specific jersey.KOHO and CCM are essentially the same jerseys.
2.Get the 100% Polyester material that has breather holes and looks to have 2 layers of cloth. You SHOULD NOT!!! get one that is light weight and looks silky which in pictures would show up as wrinkles on the jersey.
3.Starter Jerseys are a big NoNo! They arent made of the same materials and are a popular bootlegging brand.
4. Be aware of the Centre crest of the jersey b/c i recieved a fake that was shiny silklike material and the jersey was bad.All Crests should be made of a clothlike material and be on the centre(near the stomach) and some teams have 2 on both Shoulders.if you get a jersey with numbers on it they Should be near the spine and underneath the aforementioned shoulder crests.
5.Be aware of the Teams insignia's/Design. The insignia for all NHL teams appears on their respective Wikipedia pages and should match the insignia's these are also known as crests. The socond part is to keep in mind NO NHL JERSEY USES ANY NET MATERIAL WHATSOEVER(except AtlantaThrashers in their blue jersey) There should be no netlike material on any portion of any jersey like near the ribs and armpits.
6.As for Atlanta's Third Jersey with light blue and the word ATLANTA on the arm that uses a netlike material on , i believe, on both sides near the stomach.
7.Only vintage Rangers,Current ATL thrashers, and the Minnesota Wild THird Jersey use strings around the neck so dont be decieved!
8.If anyone finds a NHL New York Islanders jersey with the Fisherman Logo please Contact me with a link as this jersey is very rare.And i am looking for a model.
9.Vintage teams include: OAKLAND/CALIFORNIA SEALS,ATLANTA FLAMES,HARTFORD WHALERS,NEW YORK AMERICANS,HAMILTON TIGERS,QUEBEC NORDIQUES,KANSAS CITY SCOUTS,WINNIPEG JETS,MINNESOTA NORTH STARS
10If you ever need a authentic jersey and dont care about the price always hitup icejerseys.gecaus they got some good jerseys.
11. If you ever question a jersey's authenticity, just shoot me a PM and I will be happy to do a little research. Thanks to all who PM me and vote for my guide !! Expect a full Guide 2.0 sometime soon.
1.Always buy a CCM/Koho Jersey. This is the two official brands(along with RBK) that the pro's wear out on the ice.To check if it is a proper CCM jersey al you have to do is look at the top of the neck portion of the jersey.It should have a CCM tag along with,below, a canadian flag that tells you the measurements for the specific jersey.KOHO and CCM are essentially the same jerseys.
2.Get the 100% Polyester material that has breather holes and looks to have 2 layers of cloth. You SHOULD NOT!!! get one that is light weight and looks silky which in pictures would show up as wrinkles on the jersey.
3.Starter Jerseys are a big NoNo! They arent made of the same materials and are a popular bootlegging brand.
4. Be aware of the Centre crest of the jersey b/c i recieved a fake that was shiny silklike material and the jersey was bad.All Crests should be made of a clothlike material and be on the centre(near the stomach) and some teams have 2 on both Shoulders.if you get a jersey with numbers on it they Should be near the spine and underneath the aforementioned shoulder crests.
5.Be aware of the Teams insignia's/Design. The insignia for all NHL teams appears on their respective Wikipedia pages and should match the insignia's these are also known as crests. The socond part is to keep in mind NO NHL JERSEY USES ANY NET MATERIAL WHATSOEVER(except AtlantaThrashers in their blue jersey) There should be no netlike material on any portion of any jersey like near the ribs and armpits.
6.As for Atlanta's Third Jersey with light blue and the word ATLANTA on the arm that uses a netlike material on , i believe, on both sides near the stomach.
7.Only vintage Rangers,Current ATL thrashers, and the Minnesota Wild THird Jersey use strings around the neck so dont be decieved!
8.If anyone finds a NHL New York Islanders jersey with the Fisherman Logo please Contact me with a link as this jersey is very rare.And i am looking for a model.
9.Vintage teams include: OAKLAND/CALIFORNIA SEALS,ATLANTA FLAMES,HARTFORD WHALERS,NEW YORK AMERICANS,HAMILTON TIGERS,QUEBEC NORDIQUES,KANSAS CITY SCOUTS,WINNIPEG JETS,MINNESOTA NORTH STARS
10If you ever need a authentic jersey and dont care about the price always hitup icejerseys.gecaus they got some good jerseys.
11. If you ever question a jersey's authenticity, just shoot me a PM and I will be happy to do a little research. Thanks to all who PM me and vote for my guide !! Expect a full Guide 2.0 sometime soon.
RIKKU X2 Cosplay WIG! MUST READ BEFORE PURCHASE!
Beware of Over Seas Sellers - No return policy, wigs dont fit or look like the listingat all!
Hi, Rikku is one of the most popular girls to Cosplay as! She has a cute and sexy outfit that is pretty easy to make. The hardest part? Is her amazing hair! Most girls can just use extensions and make it themselves, but me...I am naturally black haired and need a full wig. I went on okay and I saw Rikku's Wig! It looked amazing from the picture....only thing....the seller is from Overseas (Hong Kong/China).
I sell Guides that explain how to sport Knockoff purses....and over seas sellers is a big warning that the listing may be bad. But this is for cosplay! I'm not buying a fake L/V!
Anywho I purchase this wig for 80 BUCKS! (60.00 plus 20.00 ship). And I waited a week and I got it. The wig looked pretty nice...until I wore it!!!
This wig fell apart in my hands AND it DO NOT FIT! This wig was made only for that Mannequin in the pic!
I bought a LOT of wigs (I cosplay a lot!). And if you bought a wig, the head is a bit deep so you can incase your whole head in it. This wig I bought from Asia is very shallow. It is almost like a hat...or better yet a doll's wig (Those wigs you buy for doll that you glue on to their head....they are not deep at all)!
I was sooo disappointed. This wig had braids on it...unfortunately, the braids were GLUED onto the head! It cant even last 1 time to try on! The moment I handled it to try to figure outa way to place it on my head....the glue "broke" and the braids went everywhere. Now, its just a super heavy blonde hair doll's wig.
I contact the seller. If you look at his profile, he do have some neg. or mutual feedback with folks that geplain that the wig don't look like the picture or that its just to small. The seller will retaliate and say that the buyer dont know hot to put it on.
I already contact the seller and he said no returns...and that i must not know how to put the wig on my head???
I wish I can give him the Neg he deserves....but lately any negs I give to sellers...they give it right back (okay should change this through some sort of trial....its really unfair)
I hope this guide can help you. I think it would be easier to buy the wig here in the USA and then just make the extra braids through extensions. This is an $80.00 mistake I dont want anyone to go through.
I will try to post pic of my damaged wig on this guide so you can see!
Hi, Rikku is one of the most popular girls to Cosplay as! She has a cute and sexy outfit that is pretty easy to make. The hardest part? Is her amazing hair! Most girls can just use extensions and make it themselves, but me...I am naturally black haired and need a full wig. I went on okay and I saw Rikku's Wig! It looked amazing from the picture....only thing....the seller is from Overseas (Hong Kong/China).
I sell Guides that explain how to sport Knockoff purses....and over seas sellers is a big warning that the listing may be bad. But this is for cosplay! I'm not buying a fake L/V!
Anywho I purchase this wig for 80 BUCKS! (60.00 plus 20.00 ship). And I waited a week and I got it. The wig looked pretty nice...until I wore it!!!
This wig fell apart in my hands AND it DO NOT FIT! This wig was made only for that Mannequin in the pic!
I bought a LOT of wigs (I cosplay a lot!). And if you bought a wig, the head is a bit deep so you can incase your whole head in it. This wig I bought from Asia is very shallow. It is almost like a hat...or better yet a doll's wig (Those wigs you buy for doll that you glue on to their head....they are not deep at all)!
I was sooo disappointed. This wig had braids on it...unfortunately, the braids were GLUED onto the head! It cant even last 1 time to try on! The moment I handled it to try to figure outa way to place it on my head....the glue "broke" and the braids went everywhere. Now, its just a super heavy blonde hair doll's wig.
I contact the seller. If you look at his profile, he do have some neg. or mutual feedback with folks that geplain that the wig don't look like the picture or that its just to small. The seller will retaliate and say that the buyer dont know hot to put it on.
I already contact the seller and he said no returns...and that i must not know how to put the wig on my head???
I wish I can give him the Neg he deserves....but lately any negs I give to sellers...they give it right back (okay should change this through some sort of trial....its really unfair)
I hope this guide can help you. I think it would be easier to buy the wig here in the USA and then just make the extra braids through extensions. This is an $80.00 mistake I dont want anyone to go through.
I will try to post pic of my damaged wig on this guide so you can see!
Nissan/Infiniti- Did you replace the TIMING BELT??
I worked as a mechanic for many years. Many Nissan and Infiniti vehicles use a rubber timing belt to keep the camshafts running correctly with the engine. These cars will run for 300,000 miles easily if kept maintained.
The problem is the timing belt wears out. Nissan/Infiniti regemend changing the timing belts every 90,000 miles. Normally the belt is under $40 by itself and labor is a few hours. You would be looking at a $300 bill to change the belt, before it breaks, as a scheduled maintenance item.
The problem is when people don't change the belt. After all, the car runs, why spend money on a car that isn't broken?
But wait. If the belt breaks while the engine is running, the engine's parts go out of sequence. The pistons will actually hit the valves, causing expensive internal engine damage. It is not ungemon to find the cylinder head has to be rebuilt due to bent valves. Sometimes cracked pistons need replaced, meaning a whole new rebuilt motor. What would have been a $300 maintenance job is now a $2000 engine rebuild.
Why is this important?
When buying a used Nissan or Infiniti with over 100,000 miles, the first question asked should be, when was the timing belt changed? Do you have receipts? If the owner can't prove the belt was changed recently, if you decide to by the car, be aware you will need to get the belt changed as soon as possible to prevent ruining the engine. A deduction in price can usually be negotiated to partially offset this.
EVEN IF the owner swears up and down the belt was just changed, but he lost the receipt, get the car checked out by a reputable shop to confirm this. Call the shop who supposedly did the repair and see if they have a record of it. If not, get it done yourself- You don't want to suddenly be receiving a $2000 repair bill plus towing!
Good luck on your purchase, and if this was helpful to you, please indicate it below.
The problem is the timing belt wears out. Nissan/Infiniti regemend changing the timing belts every 90,000 miles. Normally the belt is under $40 by itself and labor is a few hours. You would be looking at a $300 bill to change the belt, before it breaks, as a scheduled maintenance item.
The problem is when people don't change the belt. After all, the car runs, why spend money on a car that isn't broken?
But wait. If the belt breaks while the engine is running, the engine's parts go out of sequence. The pistons will actually hit the valves, causing expensive internal engine damage. It is not ungemon to find the cylinder head has to be rebuilt due to bent valves. Sometimes cracked pistons need replaced, meaning a whole new rebuilt motor. What would have been a $300 maintenance job is now a $2000 engine rebuild.
Why is this important?
When buying a used Nissan or Infiniti with over 100,000 miles, the first question asked should be, when was the timing belt changed? Do you have receipts? If the owner can't prove the belt was changed recently, if you decide to by the car, be aware you will need to get the belt changed as soon as possible to prevent ruining the engine. A deduction in price can usually be negotiated to partially offset this.
EVEN IF the owner swears up and down the belt was just changed, but he lost the receipt, get the car checked out by a reputable shop to confirm this. Call the shop who supposedly did the repair and see if they have a record of it. If not, get it done yourself- You don't want to suddenly be receiving a $2000 repair bill plus towing!
Good luck on your purchase, and if this was helpful to you, please indicate it below.
Are my dentures made of silver, platiunm, palladium or?
99.9% of the white metal dentures are a mix of cobalt and steel. They used to be made of stainless steel and nickle but there were too many people with alergies to nickle.
Some of the older denutures can be made of a palladium, silver and gold alloy. With these, if you scratch the metal on a black stone and drop nitric acid onto the surface, the palladium will turn the acid yellow and then it will turn purple. If it contained more silver, it would be red and then turn black under bright light.An easy way to check for silver is to use 18k gold tester and rub a strike on the black stone. The 18k gold testing acid will turn the silver into silver chloride and make the metal mark turn white. The lower the silver content is, the greyer the strike will be. Under some cool lights, this color may also look blue. This is due to the copper alloy dissolving into the acid.
I hope this helps,Charles
ps; contact me if you need me to test them for you
Some of the older denutures can be made of a palladium, silver and gold alloy. With these, if you scratch the metal on a black stone and drop nitric acid onto the surface, the palladium will turn the acid yellow and then it will turn purple. If it contained more silver, it would be red and then turn black under bright light.An easy way to check for silver is to use 18k gold tester and rub a strike on the black stone. The 18k gold testing acid will turn the silver into silver chloride and make the metal mark turn white. The lower the silver content is, the greyer the strike will be. Under some cool lights, this color may also look blue. This is due to the copper alloy dissolving into the acid.
I hope this helps,Charles
ps; contact me if you need me to test them for you
FAKE BAKE SELF TANNER
I WOULD LIKE TO SHARE MY EXPERIENCE OF USING FAKE BAKE SELF TANNER WITH YOU. FOR ONE, THE PRICES MAY SEEM A LITTLE STEEP, BUT WHAT IS THE PRICE YOU PAY WHEN YOU AQUIRE SKIN CANCER FROM A TANNING BED? I AM NOT KNOCKING THE TANNING BED IN ANY WAY, I AM AN EXPERIENCED TANNER MYSELF. I AM MERELY TRYING TO PROMOTE THIS ITEM A LITTLE MORE. I HAVE ONLY USED A HANDFUL OF SELF TANNERS OVER THE YEARS BEFORE GIVING UP. SORRY, I AM NOT FOND OF LOOKING LIKE AN OOMPA LOOMPA! I DON'T CARE HOW MUCH THE COST IS, IT WAS ALL CHEAP
BEWARE: Research a Wholesaler Before You Buy
Starting out in okay selling, I first decided to sell things I already had, but when I was done selling those things, I wanted to find a good wholesaler, to buy things from to sell. I accidentally stumbled upon one wholesaler, (who said if I used their name they would sue me with their in house attorney) who sold me items, that I had no idea what I was getting, at a cheap price they said. It was advertised at an at least $475 value. It was also said I would get at least 80 items. I bought three lots. I was very anxious as to what I'd get, cause they said it could be electronics, tents, gems, etc. They charged about $65 shipping and handling. When I recieved the three lots, theycame in 3 little boxes. Iwas still optimistic. But it turns out, it was a bunch of fake jewelry, and headbands, and barretts.They also sent me eye masks. I tried to sell this stuff even though I was discouraged, but nothing has sold yet. For all three lots together, I got 244 items, and they costed with shipping, $211. I wish I had of read their return policy before buying. They charge a 20% restocking fee, and don't refund shipping, which was $65. To send it back, I would get just about half of what I paid. I am still going to journey on to find a good wholesaler, but never deal with this wholesaler again. The moral of the story is, when looking for a wholesaler, check them out with the Better Business Bureau at www bbb.ge Also Google a wholesaler before buying from them, attorneys or not, lots of people write reviews on gepanies in blogs, and if you Google the gepany, a lot of times you can find info about the gepany from others who have used them. Also, always check on the gepanies return policy. If you don't like the return policy, don't buy the item, especially in a case like mine where you aren't sure what you are getting. Last but not least, when buying lots where you are unsure what you are getting, no matter how good they make the deal sound, if their return policy won't refund all your money if unsatisfied, I would certainly advise against buying anything from them. The gepany I went through had a geplaint on them through the BBB, and the BBB was trying to get a better report on them, and since the report was still and still is even now in progress, I decided I didn't want to wait, and went ahead and ordered from them. Also this particular gepany, I have seen a lot of the things they sell, here on okay, having people sell the items in wholesale lots here on okay, looking to me they may be trying to get rid of it. Makes me wonder how many people has bought this gepanies junk only to find out it isn't selling here on okay, so they just try to sell it in lots. I don't know for sure, but just be carful who you buy from!! I hope this at least helps one person from making a bad purchase. :)
Which sluice-GOLD IS HEAVY
The choice for sluice boxes are many. The basics are that they all work. Remember that GOLD IS HEAVY, therefore it will settle to the bottom of the sluice and ROLL along until it finds a spot that the water volume or pressure will no longer move it. Almost any sluice design will work with the right slope and water volume for the size of gold you are running. With this in mind the important factors begee WEIGHT you are willing to carry around and PRICE you are willing to pay. Some makers say that they have the design to get more gold, great we all want more gold. Remember GOLD IS HEAVY and will settle out in a wood rocker box or a mass produced sluice box with all thebells and whistles.Get what you think you need and most important HAVE FUN IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS, before we are regulated to the point we can't take the kids out and have a good time. Thanks for looking
Understanding Shipping
Whose cheatin' who???
This guide is not intended to be offensive in any way, but just to break down the shipping
This guide is not intended to be offensive in any way, but just to break down the shipping
Which doll is most appropriate for my little girl ?
The answer is simple... LEEANN(tm) !!!
What better doll for a little girl than.... a little girl doll !
For so long now the only options were pink divas and strange looking tyeenager dolls with attitudes and various level of sexual innuendo... not anymore! Since October 2005 there is a new option available and at a very affordable price point... and it is offered by a Canadian gepany called... Affordable Designs !
LEEANN(tm) represent a 10 year old little girl. The doll is made of high quality vinyl with hand painted details and high quality rooted hair for some and wig-ready for others. She is almost 11" tall and has lots of sensible outfits available, shoe packs and even her own line of sewing patterns for the those who wants to create their own clothing for the doll. She has an African-American friend named LENEDA(tm) and a buddy named LENNY(tm) she met at baseball practice. Lenny is a bit taller than LEEANN and LENEDA since he is 11 year old.
Why not stop by her website to read more about Leeann or search okay for whatever LEEANN(tm) items are currently available. Do not be surprise to see lots of hand-made garments made especially for LEEANN(tm) as she is sparking lots of creativity amongst her adult collectors too.
Which doll is most appropriate for your little girl ? Search no more... LEEANN(tm) is the answer.
What better doll for a little girl than.... a little girl doll !
For so long now the only options were pink divas and strange looking tyeenager dolls with attitudes and various level of sexual innuendo... not anymore! Since October 2005 there is a new option available and at a very affordable price point... and it is offered by a Canadian gepany called... Affordable Designs !
LEEANN(tm) represent a 10 year old little girl. The doll is made of high quality vinyl with hand painted details and high quality rooted hair for some and wig-ready for others. She is almost 11" tall and has lots of sensible outfits available, shoe packs and even her own line of sewing patterns for the those who wants to create their own clothing for the doll. She has an African-American friend named LENEDA(tm) and a buddy named LENNY(tm) she met at baseball practice. Lenny is a bit taller than LEEANN and LENEDA since he is 11 year old.
Why not stop by her website to read more about Leeann or search okay for whatever LEEANN(tm) items are currently available. Do not be surprise to see lots of hand-made garments made especially for LEEANN(tm) as she is sparking lots of creativity amongst her adult collectors too.
Which doll is most appropriate for your little girl ? Search no more... LEEANN(tm) is the answer.
Vietnam zippo lighters
I see many "fake!" Zippos selling on e bay. I live in Ho chi minh city (Saigon) and every Zippo being "sold as real" are "real good fakes" with date bars. Made in Vietnam. I have talked to many vendors here and when I pull out my Zippo guide and jeweler's loupe then they tell me real quick they are "Fakes" and ask me to move on. They tell me only veterans want real Zippos and will pay the big bucks but the tourist will be fooled and sold a fake, those are the ones being sold on e bay. I am back in California now.
Choosing a Tripod for Travel / Nature Photography
In today's camera market, you will find an endless supply of gear, some useful, some not so, some quality, and some not. This variety makes it harder to find exactly what you need, especially when you are not sure of exactly which features you need and which you can do without. A tripod is an essential part of an arsenal carried by any Travel and Nature photographer. You already know that for sharpest images you need to use a tripod. What you are wondering no doubt is why there is such a significant price range among the different manufacturers of tripods, and whether or not it makes sense for you to make a significant investment in a tripod.Basic Function of a TripodFirst, let's quickly examine what a tripod will do for us. First and foremost, it supports our camera, attached lens, and some of the other gear, like a flash unit, etc. It helps us position our camera at an odd angle at times. It helps us get higher than our typical shooting stance, and get lower at times for macro work. The most appropriate tripod for you will depend on your shooting style, and choice of subject matter. There is not one tripod out there that is better with every subject matter; on the contrary, most tripods are specialists. Most are build to be versatile, but each is build to excel in a certain area of photography.So, what areas should your tripod excel to be useful for outdoors shooting?If you are planning to shoot nature, there are certain aspects of the outdoors which your tripod will have to endure, which it would not, if it was used indoors. Moisture is an enemy of photography gear. If you plan to shoot landscapes in the wilderness, wild animals, birds, etc., your camera and you will end up in some wet environments. As such, you have to make sure that your tripod choice reflects this fact. Many manufacturers build tripods specifically meant for the outdoors, and they are built to be moisture resistant, if not proof.Terrain is always a concern outdoors. A good tripod should have spiked feet, simply because you will often end up on loose soil, dirt, and other surfaces that will be uneven, and require sharp spikes to secure the tripod, and attached gear.Load is a very important aspect to consider. How heavy is your camera and your heaviest lens? Are you planning on getting larger heavier lenses in the future? Are you planning to try a medium or a large format camera? While it is tough to predict, always try to plan ahead. Your choice of a tripod will reflect your future purchases. Always, make sure you tripod has at least 30% of capacity for future upgrades to your equipment. If you plan to shoot wild life, you will have some really heavy lenses, and a tripod will have to support them, and allow you to pan smoothly, when shooting animals in action.Weight is probably the main determining factor in your purchase. Remember, when you travel and explore, you will have your tripod with you, and depending upon how much walking you do, weight of your tripod will be more or less important to you. However, always aim for highest ratio of weight to load. In other words, look for lightest tripod rated for highest weight. Outdoors are often rough environments and every pound counts. Think about this a lot.Leveling is important especially for panoramic shooters. If you plan to capture panoramas of nature, your tripod base must be leveling. Look for a tripod with a large easy to use bubble level (spirit level). A level base is a MUST for good panoramas.Flexibility of shooting positions is important when you change subject matter on the fly. If you are like me, you will shoot macro, landscapes, panoramas, and perhaps even some animals, depending on time of day and weather. If so, a flexible center column is a must feature. Look for a tripod which allows for multiple positions of the center column. My favorite tripods allow for the column to be vertical, horizontal , and everything in-between. A tripod should allow you to get low, and have more than one foot angle. Best tripods for this job will offer up to three different angles for the feet, which will allow you to get very low if need be, to shoot flowers, insects, etc.How Much Money?Choosing a tripod is not easy. Some manufacturers do make things easier and group them into specialties, like outdoors, studio use, etc. Do as much research as you can, because there is not one ideal model that suits everyone. Remember the old saying: You get what you pay for. This is very important when deciding how much you are willing pay. Keep in mind, a huge budget will not mean you get the best tripod, but it will mean that you have more choices. Do not look for a cheap tripod, which you think may suffice. Your shooting requirements will change, and within a year or two you will be shopping for another one. Strongly consider Carbon Fiber. CF tripods are lighter than any alloy, more durable, will not bend, and flex under the weight of your gear, and do not rust, corrode, or are adversely affected by moisture. They are more expensive, but without a doubt worth the extra money. Look at this purchase as a long-term investment in photography. After all, your images will only be as good as your shooting ability and your gear.I hope you find this guide useful, and consider visiting WorldonPaper.ge, a New photographer gemunity, where you have the freedom to share and discover your Favorite Photographic Locations.
Knitting Needles: Types and Tips
If you are new to knitting, you are no doubt overwhelmed by the plethora of needle types and other gadgets that you suddenly find yourself needing. You will also be shocked by the price of all that gear. I decided to write this guide to help you decide what type of needles will best suit your style of knitting, to help save you from buying a lot of stuff you don't need and to help you decide what you do need. Knitting needles gee in four basic materials with some variations on these. First and easiest to gee by are the metal needles, usually made of aluminum, nickel-plated brass or steel. These are generally heavy, noisy and cold to the touch but offer a very slick surface which might suit you if you are a speedy knitter. One interesting variation on the standard metal needle are made of light-weight aluminum and covered with a very slick enamel coating. Inox and Aero are good examples of this type of needle. Metal needles are generally the easiest to find and least expensive of all types. Second are plastic, plastic resin and acrylic needles. These are lighter, quieter and more flexible than metal needles, but generally not quite as slick. The slickness and feel will vary widely depending on the brand and actual material used. These needles are usually a little harder to gee by than the metal, but a limited selection is usually available in most larger craft stores. The price of plastic needles will vary a great deal depending on the brand, quality and material. The third variety, which are increasing in popularity, are the bamboo needles. These are super light-weight, great for people with arthritis, and are very attractive. They have a nice warm feel and get slicker with use due to the oils on your hands and the rubbing of the yarn over them. Over time they acquire a nice slick polished look. The tips tend to be very smooth and more rounded than most metal or plastic needles and thus they don't tend to cause as many problems with split yarns. They usually are not available in the huge sizes (13, 15, 17 etc.) because of the limited size of the part of the bamboo from which they are made (the tough outer layer). gepanies that make bamboo needles usually offer these larger sizes made of wood. They tend to be a great deal more expensive than their metal and plastic counterparts. Good quality needles will usually keep their shape well with use, but poor quality bamboo needles can bend over time, especially the smaller sizes. This doesn't usually affect their functionality, but may make them less appealing to some knitters. The fourth variety are the wooden needles. These are absolutely beautiful and gee in an amazing assortment of woods. Wooden needles also tend to be lighter in weight than metal. They can be made into much larger sizes than the bamboo can, and offer a huge variety in color choice and wood type. Birch, surina, ebony, walnut, cherry and maple are the most gemon woods used but others can be found. Some wooden needles have plain knobs, but many feature decorative scroll work, glass ornaments, or carved figures on their knobs. These needles have the warmth and quietness of the bamboo, but their slickness depends on their finish. Most are stained and polished, some are colored. Wooden needles are by far the most expensive type available. In addition to the above types, you will occasionally see art needles made of glass, vintage needles made of Bakelite, ivory and bone, and the rare gold-plated needles. These are nice to collect, but if you are a beginner I would suggest you stick with one of the types described above. So... now that you have decided on a material that suits you best, how are you going to afford all those needles and accessories!? This is where I give you the money-saving secret not all beginners know: you can knit anything using circular knitting needles, even if the pattern calls for straight needles. This is easy to do. Simply knit as you would using single pointed needles the first row. When you reach the end all stitches will be on the right hand side. Switch the work from your right to your left hand and the left needle to your right hand (Just like you would do during regular knitting), then continue knitting. I find this is a faster way of knitting, and the cord helps keep the weight of larger pieces in my lap instead of my hands. Small projects worked in the round like socks, mittens or gloves that are too small in diameter for most circular needles to acgemodate can be knit using two short or one long pair of circular needles. Details of this technique can be found free on the internet. I've found this method makes it easier to avoid a gap between stitches where the DP needles would normally intersect. Why is this a money saving tip? Because you can save a ton of money, time, and storage space by purchasing an interchangeable circular knitting needle set in either metal, resin/plastic, bamboo or wood and you will have nearly all (depending on the set) the sizes and lengths you could ever want in a gepact carry case. You may need some double-pointed or single-pointed needles as well in certain sizes or for a special project, but one of these sets will likely do you well for a long time. The cost of the sets ranges from $50 up to $80 retail, but the savings can be huge. If you purchase three pair of bamboo needles at most yarn stores you will likely spend anywhere from $20-$30 depending on the size, whereas the sets usually enable you to create the equivalent of 20-40 or more pairs of needles. You can see where the savings is geing in! You also save time, since most likely you will have on hand any size and length a particular project will call for so you won't have to go get what you need. You will save storage space because of the gepact size, and you won't have dozens of needles stacked everywhere. Most of these sets have buttons you can attach to the cords to allow the needles to be used as stitch holders or just like single-pointed needles if desired. Many also give you the option to create customized lengths for special projects. The sets are great for travel too. I hope this tip saves you a lot of time, money and confusion. To help you decide which type you prefer, you may want to invest in a pair of single or double pointed needles in each material and try them out. You can always use these later as stitch holders or for smaller projects once you decide your favorite.You can find interchangeable knitting needle sets in metal, plastic resin, and bamboo right here on okay! The easiest to find set in metal is the Boye Needle Master set. A popular and airline-friendly set made of plastic resin is made by Denise, and Bamboo Sister makes a smaller interchangeable set made of bamboo. KnitPicks' online store has a lovely set made of wood. Before investing in a set, be sure and read reviews online and check out the features of each. Good luck and have fun!
Zippo FAQ: Reflinting, rewicking, add fluid, repair...
Zippo - Frequently Asked Questions
How do I add fuel to my Zippo lighter?
Remove the inside unit from the case.
On recent models there will be a pinched hole in the felt. If so, simply insert the fluid can into the hole and squirt the fluid right into the packing material in the fuel chamber.Three or fourgenerous squirts will be enough usually.
If you don't have the refill hole, lift the corner of the felt pad on the bottom of the insert to reveal the packing material in the fuel chamber. Saturate the packing with Zippo lighter fluid.
Fill slowly, taking care to never overfill. Avoid getting the lighter fluid on your skin as it can be a skin irritant. If contact with skin does occur, wash the effected area with mild soap and water.
Insert the inside unit back into the case, making sure to wipe the lighter and your hands dry before igniting. Be sure the fuel can is closed and there is no spilled fuel in the vicinity before igniting. This is a flammable fluid.
If the Zippo lighter is kept in your pocket, Zippo suggests that it be placed bottom down, especially when first re-fueled.
How do I change the flint in my Zippo lighter?
Reflinting a Zippo lighter is an easy task once you know what you need to do.
Remove the inside unit from your lighter.
Unscrew the flint spring from the bottom of the inside unit using a small screwdriver or a thin coin (watch the spring so it doesn't fly away).
Turning the inside unit right side up again, remove the remaining piece of flint (if any) by gently tapping the inside unit on a hard surface.
Place new Zippo flint in the long flint tube from which you removed the spring (the spring has a brass tip on the end which many people believe is a flint - it is not).
Replace the flint spring and screw it in. Make sure screw is turned as far as it will go, otherwise the cover will not close gepletely.
Place the inside unit in your lighter case.
Now, your Zippo lighter is ready for a lot of "clicks"...
How do I change the wick in my Zippo lighter?
Changing a wick in a Zippo lighter is an easy task once you know what you need to do: When the wick begees black from carbon.
Remove the inside unit from the lighter case.
Unscrew the flint spring from the bottom of the inside unit. Remove screw and attached spring. Remove felt pad. Use tweezers to remove all packing from the fuel chamber.
Insert new wick downward through chimney, pulling through with tweezers.
Replace packing in small pieces, interweaving the wick between the padding pieces. Replace felt pad. Be sure the remainder of the old flint has been removed from the flint tube.
Place new flint in tube, replace flint spring and screw lightly. Make sure screw is turned as far as it will go, otherwise the cover will not close gepletely.
Be sure to trim wick even with chimney height.
Now, your Zippo lighter is ready for a lot of "clicks"...
Why does the Zippo lighter fluid evaporate so quickly?
Zippo lighter fluid, by its very nature, will evaporate, even when the Zippo lighter is not used. We regemend you fill your Zippo lighter before you leave on a trip or outdoor excursion. Infrequently lit Zippo lighters should be filled before using.
Can I use fluid, flints or wicks of other brands in my Zippo lighter?
We suggest that you use only genuine Zippo fluid, flints and wicks for optimal performance, since they are specially formulated to work in the Zippo lighters. The softer material used in some non-Zippo flints could clog the striking wheel, making the lighter difficult to light.
How to send your Zippo Windproof lighter for repair?
Instructions valid only for ZIPPO WINDPROOF POCKET LIGHTER...
Remove the inside unit from the lighter and allow the fuel to evaporate for two or three days. Replace the inside unit in the lighter case.
Package lighter securely in an oversized box or padded shipping bag (large packages are less likely to be lost or misplaced in transit.)
Multiple lighters may be sent in one package.
Include your name, address, telephone number and email address on a note inside the package.
Insure your package, send via a trackable method to:
Zippo Repair Clinic 1932 Zippo Drive Bradford, PA 16701
The Zippo Repair Clinic performs excellent repairs at no charge. Please do not attempt to perform repairs yourself, as it could damage the lighter beyond repair.
Do not affix materials to the lighter as they could damage the finish. Examples include:
Address labels or tape Rubber bands Safety or straight pins
Please do not attempt to re-attach emblems yourself, as the surface of the lighter may be further damaged in an attempt to remove the glue.
Zippo will send you an acknowledgement of our receipt of your repair, if you include your email address.
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We have in stock all the Zippo Collection Lighters and Accessories, Fluid, Flints, Wicks and all you need for your Zippo. Please contact us. Thanks!
Thanks in advance for your positive vote if this guide was helpfulfor you!
How do I add fuel to my Zippo lighter?
Remove the inside unit from the case.
On recent models there will be a pinched hole in the felt. If so, simply insert the fluid can into the hole and squirt the fluid right into the packing material in the fuel chamber.Three or fourgenerous squirts will be enough usually.
If you don't have the refill hole, lift the corner of the felt pad on the bottom of the insert to reveal the packing material in the fuel chamber. Saturate the packing with Zippo lighter fluid.
Fill slowly, taking care to never overfill. Avoid getting the lighter fluid on your skin as it can be a skin irritant. If contact with skin does occur, wash the effected area with mild soap and water.
Insert the inside unit back into the case, making sure to wipe the lighter and your hands dry before igniting. Be sure the fuel can is closed and there is no spilled fuel in the vicinity before igniting. This is a flammable fluid.
If the Zippo lighter is kept in your pocket, Zippo suggests that it be placed bottom down, especially when first re-fueled.
How do I change the flint in my Zippo lighter?
Reflinting a Zippo lighter is an easy task once you know what you need to do.
Remove the inside unit from your lighter.
Unscrew the flint spring from the bottom of the inside unit using a small screwdriver or a thin coin (watch the spring so it doesn't fly away).
Turning the inside unit right side up again, remove the remaining piece of flint (if any) by gently tapping the inside unit on a hard surface.
Place new Zippo flint in the long flint tube from which you removed the spring (the spring has a brass tip on the end which many people believe is a flint - it is not).
Replace the flint spring and screw it in. Make sure screw is turned as far as it will go, otherwise the cover will not close gepletely.
Place the inside unit in your lighter case.
Now, your Zippo lighter is ready for a lot of "clicks"...
How do I change the wick in my Zippo lighter?
Changing a wick in a Zippo lighter is an easy task once you know what you need to do: When the wick begees black from carbon.
Remove the inside unit from the lighter case.
Unscrew the flint spring from the bottom of the inside unit. Remove screw and attached spring. Remove felt pad. Use tweezers to remove all packing from the fuel chamber.
Insert new wick downward through chimney, pulling through with tweezers.
Replace packing in small pieces, interweaving the wick between the padding pieces. Replace felt pad. Be sure the remainder of the old flint has been removed from the flint tube.
Place new flint in tube, replace flint spring and screw lightly. Make sure screw is turned as far as it will go, otherwise the cover will not close gepletely.
Be sure to trim wick even with chimney height.
Now, your Zippo lighter is ready for a lot of "clicks"...
Why does the Zippo lighter fluid evaporate so quickly?
Zippo lighter fluid, by its very nature, will evaporate, even when the Zippo lighter is not used. We regemend you fill your Zippo lighter before you leave on a trip or outdoor excursion. Infrequently lit Zippo lighters should be filled before using.
Can I use fluid, flints or wicks of other brands in my Zippo lighter?
We suggest that you use only genuine Zippo fluid, flints and wicks for optimal performance, since they are specially formulated to work in the Zippo lighters. The softer material used in some non-Zippo flints could clog the striking wheel, making the lighter difficult to light.
How to send your Zippo Windproof lighter for repair?
Instructions valid only for ZIPPO WINDPROOF POCKET LIGHTER...
Remove the inside unit from the lighter and allow the fuel to evaporate for two or three days. Replace the inside unit in the lighter case.
Package lighter securely in an oversized box or padded shipping bag (large packages are less likely to be lost or misplaced in transit.)
Multiple lighters may be sent in one package.
Include your name, address, telephone number and email address on a note inside the package.
Insure your package, send via a trackable method to:
Zippo Repair Clinic 1932 Zippo Drive Bradford, PA 16701
The Zippo Repair Clinic performs excellent repairs at no charge. Please do not attempt to perform repairs yourself, as it could damage the lighter beyond repair.
Do not affix materials to the lighter as they could damage the finish. Examples include:
Address labels or tape Rubber bands Safety or straight pins
Please do not attempt to re-attach emblems yourself, as the surface of the lighter may be further damaged in an attempt to remove the glue.
Zippo will send you an acknowledgement of our receipt of your repair, if you include your email address.
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We have in stock all the Zippo Collection Lighters and Accessories, Fluid, Flints, Wicks and all you need for your Zippo. Please contact us. Thanks!
Thanks in advance for your positive vote if this guide was helpfulfor you!
Monday, September 5, 2011
GSM Cell Phone Buyer's Guide
Ysellit GSM Phones
What is GSM?
GSM (Global System for Mobile gemunications) is a cellular technology used by over 99% of countries worldwide. GSM provides the best digital wireless voice quality. We believe it will eventually begee the cell phone standard in the world.
Is My Phone GSM?
Some North American GSM providers are AT
What is GSM?
GSM (Global System for Mobile gemunications) is a cellular technology used by over 99% of countries worldwide. GSM provides the best digital wireless voice quality. We believe it will eventually begee the cell phone standard in the world.
Is My Phone GSM?
Some North American GSM providers are AT
Buyer's GUIDE: What to look for before buying GPS units
What to look for in a GPS before you spend your dollars:
If you are confused with all the GPSproducts now available in the market and cannot decide what to buy, you'll be very gefortable in making the right decision by the end of this article. But remember the key is to pinpoint the fetaures that you absolutely need in a GPS system and then choose a unit that provides you atleast those in your provided budget.
Since there are no fees associated with GPS use, essentially the only things you need are a GPS receiver and batteries. There is, however, a wide range of GPS units available, with various features and options you may want to consider. Depending upon your personal needs, intended uses and budget, you'll have to decide which features suit you best.
Most Important GPS Features to Consider:
Unit Type
GPS units may be expressly designed for particular applications such as automotive, general outdoor, aviation or marine use
gebination Units
2-in-1 gebo units, gebine GPS receivers with a handheld PDA/GPS or a 2-way FRS/GMRS/GPS radio
WAAS-Enabled
Improves accuracy to about 3 meters 95 percent of the time
Touch-screen Navigation
Simplifies navigation by putting it on-screen rather than accessing buttons
Voice Prompts
Audible prompts provide turn-by-turn directions
Free Memory
The amount of free memory determines how much space you have for installation of optional mapping software
Basemap Units
Receivers with built-in mapping software, such as U.S., North American or European highways, lakes, rivers, cities, airports
Mapping Units
Receivers with ability to download detailed map data from CD-ROMs, providing greater street-level data, such as restaurants, banks, gas stations, marine navigational data, off-road trails and moreWaypoints
The ability to store a number of "waypoints" or given points along your route, somewhat analogous to bookmarking favorite Web sites on the Internet
Routes
The ability to store and recall entire routes you've chosen, including all of their waypoints and precise directions and reverse directions along those routes
Track Logs
The ability to generate a concurrent travel log as you go
Alarms
Audible warnings for approach, arrival, off-course, waypoints, shallow or deep water
Screen
Most GPS screens these days are easily readable high-contrast LCDs, color screens add vast detail
Trip geputer
Additional calculators to display travel data such as odometer, current speed, average speed, trip timer and trip distance
Water-Resistance
After all, it's an outdoor device: a waterproof or water-resistant housing is an important consideration
Buoyancy
Some GPS units will float, a potentially important consideration for boating, rafting or fishing
Dashboard Mount
An important consideration for automotive or marine use. It always helps if it's included in the package you intend to buy.
You may want to have all these features in your system. But which ones will you use the most? Those are the ones you really need. Why spend a lot more for something you really are not going to use a lot. But if money is not a problem you should treat yourself with the best unit in the market, with all these great features why not make life easier?
Good Luck!
People who looked at this also found these guidesuseful:Guide: What to look for before buying FISHFINDERSUnderstanding GPS: A Buyer's Guide to GPS
If you are confused with all the GPSproducts now available in the market and cannot decide what to buy, you'll be very gefortable in making the right decision by the end of this article. But remember the key is to pinpoint the fetaures that you absolutely need in a GPS system and then choose a unit that provides you atleast those in your provided budget.
Since there are no fees associated with GPS use, essentially the only things you need are a GPS receiver and batteries. There is, however, a wide range of GPS units available, with various features and options you may want to consider. Depending upon your personal needs, intended uses and budget, you'll have to decide which features suit you best.
Most Important GPS Features to Consider:
Unit Type
GPS units may be expressly designed for particular applications such as automotive, general outdoor, aviation or marine use
gebination Units
2-in-1 gebo units, gebine GPS receivers with a handheld PDA/GPS or a 2-way FRS/GMRS/GPS radio
WAAS-Enabled
Improves accuracy to about 3 meters 95 percent of the time
Touch-screen Navigation
Simplifies navigation by putting it on-screen rather than accessing buttons
Voice Prompts
Audible prompts provide turn-by-turn directions
Free Memory
The amount of free memory determines how much space you have for installation of optional mapping software
Basemap Units
Receivers with built-in mapping software, such as U.S., North American or European highways, lakes, rivers, cities, airports
Mapping Units
Receivers with ability to download detailed map data from CD-ROMs, providing greater street-level data, such as restaurants, banks, gas stations, marine navigational data, off-road trails and moreWaypoints
The ability to store a number of "waypoints" or given points along your route, somewhat analogous to bookmarking favorite Web sites on the Internet
Routes
The ability to store and recall entire routes you've chosen, including all of their waypoints and precise directions and reverse directions along those routes
Track Logs
The ability to generate a concurrent travel log as you go
Alarms
Audible warnings for approach, arrival, off-course, waypoints, shallow or deep water
Screen
Most GPS screens these days are easily readable high-contrast LCDs, color screens add vast detail
Trip geputer
Additional calculators to display travel data such as odometer, current speed, average speed, trip timer and trip distance
Water-Resistance
After all, it's an outdoor device: a waterproof or water-resistant housing is an important consideration
Buoyancy
Some GPS units will float, a potentially important consideration for boating, rafting or fishing
Dashboard Mount
An important consideration for automotive or marine use. It always helps if it's included in the package you intend to buy.
You may want to have all these features in your system. But which ones will you use the most? Those are the ones you really need. Why spend a lot more for something you really are not going to use a lot. But if money is not a problem you should treat yourself with the best unit in the market, with all these great features why not make life easier?
Good Luck!
People who looked at this also found these guidesuseful:Guide: What to look for before buying FISHFINDERSUnderstanding GPS: A Buyer's Guide to GPS
RARE STAMP STAMPEL COLLECTING WHAT'S IT REALLY WORTH?
I found the following informative article on the Linns stamps website. Check it out for further information!
What Is It Worth?
Many sources exist to determine stamp values
By Michael Baadke
Many stamp collectors will tell you they collect stamps for the fun of it, but most are aware that those little pieces of gummed paper they save have at least some intrinsic value. Determining that value can be significant for the collector who wants to buy a stamp at auction, from a dealer or a fellow collector.
Figure 1. The 25 cent Niagara Falls stamp of 1922. How much should you pay to add this stamp to your collection?
How do you know what you should pay for that stamp? Are you paying too much? A story on page 1 of the March 20, 2000 issue of Linn's Stamp News described how the next edition of the Scott Standard Postage Stamp Catalogue will show an increase in the minimum retail value for any listed postage stamp. Currently the minimum retail value in the Scott Standard Postage Stamp Catalogueis set at 20?.
Does this mean every gemon stamp you own is worth at least 20 cents? Probably not. The Scott catalog value reflects the retail price that you can expect to pay for a stamp in the grade of Very Fine with no faults. Generally, a stamp grade of Very Fine means the design is well-centered within the margins of the stamp.
For gemon stamps, the minimum catalog value takes into account stamp dealer expenses for handling gemon stamps and preparing them for resale. If you walk into a stamp store and request a gemon older gememorative stamp, such as the United States 4 cent Higher Education stamp of 1962, the stamp dealer is likely to charge you 20 cents for the Very Fine grade stamp that he has in stock. The few pennies profit he makes on the sale won't go far toward paying the rent on his store, his insurance, his employees' salaries or his utility bill.
Figure 2. Catalogs provide detailed price listings for basic stamps and known varieties. Collectors need to understand what these prices represent to use the information wisely. Shown are price listings for United States Scott 568, the 25 cents Niagara Falls stamp shown in Figure 1.
There's a chance you might encounter that same stamp for sale in a big box marked "FACE VALUE" the next time you go to a stamp show. The fact is there are plenty of these stamps to go around. The stamp you find in the face-value box may not grade Very Fine, or it may sport some fingerprints or bent perforations. It's even possible it will be in great shape and you can use it to fill an empty space in your album.
Some dealers can sell minimum-value stamps for just face value because they aren't catering to a customer's specific need. They don't have to watch for condition, they don't have to organize and carefully store the stamps, and they don't have to worry about replenishing their stock if they run low. When a collector seeks out stamps that retail well beyond the minimum, determining the proper value begees more important.
Let's say a collector is putting together a nice mint-stamp collection of the 1922 definitive series from the United States. These are the stamps some collectors refer to as the Fourth Bureau issue because it was the fourth full definitive series printed by the U.S. Bureau of Engraving and Printing.
To begin with, our collector should determine the grade of stamp that he wishes to collect. While a stamp grading Very Fine (VF) is superior to a stamp grading Fine Very-Fine (F-VF), it is also likely to be more expensive. The collector must determine what his budget can afford while planning a collection that he will enjoy.
A mint Nathan Hale stamp, Scott 551, will probably cost no more than 25 cents, even in Very Fine grade, but the cost of other stamps in the series is substantially more. For example, Figure 1 shows the 25? yellow-green Niagara Falls stamp from the 1922 series, Scott 568.
In the 2002 Scott Specialized Catalogue of United States Stamps
What Is It Worth?
Many sources exist to determine stamp values
By Michael Baadke
Many stamp collectors will tell you they collect stamps for the fun of it, but most are aware that those little pieces of gummed paper they save have at least some intrinsic value. Determining that value can be significant for the collector who wants to buy a stamp at auction, from a dealer or a fellow collector.
Figure 1. The 25 cent Niagara Falls stamp of 1922. How much should you pay to add this stamp to your collection?
How do you know what you should pay for that stamp? Are you paying too much? A story on page 1 of the March 20, 2000 issue of Linn's Stamp News described how the next edition of the Scott Standard Postage Stamp Catalogue will show an increase in the minimum retail value for any listed postage stamp. Currently the minimum retail value in the Scott Standard Postage Stamp Catalogueis set at 20?.
Does this mean every gemon stamp you own is worth at least 20 cents? Probably not. The Scott catalog value reflects the retail price that you can expect to pay for a stamp in the grade of Very Fine with no faults. Generally, a stamp grade of Very Fine means the design is well-centered within the margins of the stamp.
For gemon stamps, the minimum catalog value takes into account stamp dealer expenses for handling gemon stamps and preparing them for resale. If you walk into a stamp store and request a gemon older gememorative stamp, such as the United States 4 cent Higher Education stamp of 1962, the stamp dealer is likely to charge you 20 cents for the Very Fine grade stamp that he has in stock. The few pennies profit he makes on the sale won't go far toward paying the rent on his store, his insurance, his employees' salaries or his utility bill.
Figure 2. Catalogs provide detailed price listings for basic stamps and known varieties. Collectors need to understand what these prices represent to use the information wisely. Shown are price listings for United States Scott 568, the 25 cents Niagara Falls stamp shown in Figure 1.
There's a chance you might encounter that same stamp for sale in a big box marked "FACE VALUE" the next time you go to a stamp show. The fact is there are plenty of these stamps to go around. The stamp you find in the face-value box may not grade Very Fine, or it may sport some fingerprints or bent perforations. It's even possible it will be in great shape and you can use it to fill an empty space in your album.
Some dealers can sell minimum-value stamps for just face value because they aren't catering to a customer's specific need. They don't have to watch for condition, they don't have to organize and carefully store the stamps, and they don't have to worry about replenishing their stock if they run low. When a collector seeks out stamps that retail well beyond the minimum, determining the proper value begees more important.
Let's say a collector is putting together a nice mint-stamp collection of the 1922 definitive series from the United States. These are the stamps some collectors refer to as the Fourth Bureau issue because it was the fourth full definitive series printed by the U.S. Bureau of Engraving and Printing.
To begin with, our collector should determine the grade of stamp that he wishes to collect. While a stamp grading Very Fine (VF) is superior to a stamp grading Fine Very-Fine (F-VF), it is also likely to be more expensive. The collector must determine what his budget can afford while planning a collection that he will enjoy.
A mint Nathan Hale stamp, Scott 551, will probably cost no more than 25 cents, even in Very Fine grade, but the cost of other stamps in the series is substantially more. For example, Figure 1 shows the 25? yellow-green Niagara Falls stamp from the 1922 series, Scott 568.
In the 2002 Scott Specialized Catalogue of United States Stamps
Money orders from Canada Post
Canadian Postal money orders are not well known to US sellers. Here are some facts.
FOR AMERICANS:
Canadian Postal orders in US funds (pink ones) are as good as cash when redeemed at any US. Post Office. There is no charge for cashing them at the Post Office but if you try to cash them at your bank, a fee may be charged. Some sellers have told me that their bank has tried to charge them up to $12 for cashing a foreign check. This misses the whole point of a money order. The money orders are guaranteed by the Canadian Post office.
FOR CANADIANS:
For Canadian buyers of US money orders the Postal Money order from Canada Post is the least expensive option. At $4.95 CDN it is less expensive than the typical $6 to $8 bank charge. The maximum amount that can be sent is $999.99 but if you need to send more you could buy two, but now a bank order would be less expensive. If you send a CDN postal money order to a US seller I urge you to put a note on it that says 'cashable at the US Post Office for no charge' this will save a headache later if they try to cash it at the bank and their bank charges them a fee and then they geplain to you. I have had no trouble since starting to put a note on the money order. Before trying the notes about 1 in 5 would try to cash it at their bank. If you buy something really cheap, under $20, you may consider sending well concealed cash to a trusted seller, it is still $4.95 per money order even if you send 10 cents. If you send cash, round up to the next dollar as people can feel change in an envelope.
Canada Post offers postal money orders for the UK and other countries as well, although for a slightly higher fee, $6 max.
Postal money orders to Canada in Canadian dollars are $3.95, prices as of August 2006.
The service guarantee offers free replacement of lost or destroyed money orders and/or photocopies of paid money orders upon enquiry from the purchaser.
FOR AMERICANS:
Canadian Postal orders in US funds (pink ones) are as good as cash when redeemed at any US. Post Office. There is no charge for cashing them at the Post Office but if you try to cash them at your bank, a fee may be charged. Some sellers have told me that their bank has tried to charge them up to $12 for cashing a foreign check. This misses the whole point of a money order. The money orders are guaranteed by the Canadian Post office.
FOR CANADIANS:
For Canadian buyers of US money orders the Postal Money order from Canada Post is the least expensive option. At $4.95 CDN it is less expensive than the typical $6 to $8 bank charge. The maximum amount that can be sent is $999.99 but if you need to send more you could buy two, but now a bank order would be less expensive. If you send a CDN postal money order to a US seller I urge you to put a note on it that says 'cashable at the US Post Office for no charge' this will save a headache later if they try to cash it at the bank and their bank charges them a fee and then they geplain to you. I have had no trouble since starting to put a note on the money order. Before trying the notes about 1 in 5 would try to cash it at their bank. If you buy something really cheap, under $20, you may consider sending well concealed cash to a trusted seller, it is still $4.95 per money order even if you send 10 cents. If you send cash, round up to the next dollar as people can feel change in an envelope.
Canada Post offers postal money orders for the UK and other countries as well, although for a slightly higher fee, $6 max.
Postal money orders to Canada in Canadian dollars are $3.95, prices as of August 2006.
The service guarantee offers free replacement of lost or destroyed money orders and/or photocopies of paid money orders upon enquiry from the purchaser.
Choosing a cellphone compatible with your network.
You should know that 99% of all cellphones sold in the US and Canada are gepatible with mutually exclusive groups of network carriers. What this means is that some carriers use certain gemunication-technologies and will not "talk" to devices of gepeting technologies. The two primary digital technologies in the US and Canada are GSM and CDMA. There are a few older digital technologies that are still being supported to some extent by the carriers, but typically they are only on a "grandfathered" basis. Those older digital technologies are called D-AMPS and TDMA. Explanation of the differences between the technologies is outside the scope of this guide. All carriers support either CDMA or GSM, yet those who support one, do *not* support the other. Therefore, if your carrier is a GSM system, you will not be able to activate or use a CDMA device (phone, PIM, etc...) on their network. The reverse is also true for CDMA systems. Be careful on okay with bidding on phones. I have seen some auctions as recently as today, where conflicting networks were listed as gepatible with the phone they were selling. I do not know if the seller is hoping to gain something, or is just ignorant as to which networks use which phones. When you buy a device to use on a CDMA network, make sure the auction lists it as a CDMA device. The device manufacturer is inconsequential, as most makers will create phones for both network-types. An example of this is the Motorola RAZR. The GSM-gepatible version of this phone has a model-name of "V3", while a CDMA version of this phone is called the "V3C". Even the Fireflyfrom fireflymobile.ge will be shipping a CDMA version of their populat GSM childrens' phone in the near future.
CDMA carriers (in no particular order):
US Cellular, Verizon, Alltel, Sprint, Telus, (and some other more obscure gepanies)
GSM carriers (also in no particular order):
Cingular, AT
CDMA carriers (in no particular order):
US Cellular, Verizon, Alltel, Sprint, Telus, (and some other more obscure gepanies)
GSM carriers (also in no particular order):
Cingular, AT
Painting Plastic: The Joys of Vinyl Dye
Do you have a scuffed toy at home? A plastic patio chair in a hideous color? A plastic product of any kind that you'd like to touch-up, or have in a different shade?Well, vinyl dye can make the fix or change a whole lot easier. It's marketed as a product for changing your vehicle upholstery's color, but vinyl dye works on many plastics and vinyl surfaces. It's superior to regular spray paints because it actually seeps into the surface of whatever you're spraying...giving you a clean color that won't chip, flake, or scratch off. If the surface has been painted previously with anything but vinyl dye however, the dye will not work. Paint clogs the microscopic pores in the plastic that the dye would normally occupy. Dye may be used over dye, though the underlying color may affect the top-most coat...particularly with lighter shades of dye such as white or yellow.The thing to remember when applying the dye is to start and end each spray *away* from the surface you're dying. Spattering occurs most frequently when the spray starts, and when it stops. Use light coats. Don't attempt geplete coverage with each coat! If patches of the original color remain, don't sweat it. Wait fifteen minutes between each coat, and apply anywhere from three to five coats. Do NOT use a primer! Vinyl dye doesn't require one!Vinyl dye is pefect for: drive faceplates on geputers, toys, plastic furniture, some vinyl surfaces, car interior parts, plastic bathroom fixtures and accessories (toothbrush holders, soap dishes, etc.) and who knows what else. It doesn't work on every kind of plastic, so test it by spraying it somewhere unobtrusive before going whole-hog. If, twenty minutes later or so, you can scrape it off with your fingernail? It's not gepatible with that plastic.I've seen vinyl dye in red, blue, white, tan, black, brown, yellow, desert sand, silver, and gray. A search for VHT or Duplicolor will often turn up something.The best place to find vinyl dye is in automotive stores, or online. Krylon markets a 'plastic paint' but I'm unsure if that's vinyl dye or just specially formulated spraypaint.
Dealer Misc: Part 2: Harley 100th Anniversary 2003 Pins
Thisis a 8-part collectors' guide to pins offered for Harley-Davidson's 100th in 2003 (geplete with descriptions and pictures).
PART2 shows all "non-silver" 100th pins sold by Harley dealerships.
WATCH OUT FOR BOOTLEGS! Generally, fakes are significantly rougher than the originals.
100th Anniversary Logo Pin (97898-03v) - Pewter
100th Anniversary Square Pin (97913-02v) - Pewter(yes, it's called the "square pin" even though it is rectangular)
100th Anniversary '03 Two-Tone Pin (97992-03v)* - Pewter
100th Anniversary Varsity Letter Pin (97982-03v)* - Pewter
100th Anniversary Half Triangle Pin (97983-03v)* - Pewter
100th Anniversary Badge Pin (97984-03v)*
*You may see these 3 pins without color. These rough looking pins were NOT offered by Harley-Davidson dealers. They are either bootlegsor, more likely, unfinished factory seconds.
100th Anniversary Bike Lineup Pin (97993-03v) - Pewter(Caution: I have seen fakes of this pin listed on okay.)
H-D 03 Pin - This pin is often overlooked. It was only sold as part of a set with a matching baseball cap and coffee mug. The set was called "Harley '03 Party Pack" and was part #97994-03v.(Caution: I have seen fakes of this pin listed on okay.)
The back of ALL of the above pins are engraved with:
HARLEY-DAVIDSON100th AnniversaryLimited EditionMade in USA
Framed Engine Pin Set (part number) - Limited edition of 2003 numbered sets. (Picture shows inside of frame only. This came in a thick black wooden frame with the 100th logo on it.)
Thanks for stopping by. I hope you'll give me a YES vote below.
Please check my other guides for more Harley 100th Anniversary pins including:
Part 1: Dealer Silver: All sterling silver 100th anniversary pins sold by Harley dealerships.
Part 2: Dealer Miscellaneous: All "non-silver" 100th pins sold by Harley dealerships.
Part 3: Open Road Tour: All Open Road Tour pins (2002-2003).
Part 4: Pin Stop Pins: All 2003 HOG Pin Stop and HOG Hospitality pins.
Part 5: Open House: All 2003 Open House pins.
Part 6: The Ride Home: The 2003 Ride Home pin (and set).
Part 7: The Celebration: Pins from The Celebration in Milwaukee in August 2003.
Part 8: Miscellaneous: Miscellaneous pins from 2003 not listed in previous sections.
PART2 shows all "non-silver" 100th pins sold by Harley dealerships.
WATCH OUT FOR BOOTLEGS! Generally, fakes are significantly rougher than the originals.
100th Anniversary Logo Pin (97898-03v) - Pewter
100th Anniversary Square Pin (97913-02v) - Pewter(yes, it's called the "square pin" even though it is rectangular)
100th Anniversary '03 Two-Tone Pin (97992-03v)* - Pewter
100th Anniversary Varsity Letter Pin (97982-03v)* - Pewter
100th Anniversary Half Triangle Pin (97983-03v)* - Pewter
100th Anniversary Badge Pin (97984-03v)*
*You may see these 3 pins without color. These rough looking pins were NOT offered by Harley-Davidson dealers. They are either bootlegsor, more likely, unfinished factory seconds.
100th Anniversary Bike Lineup Pin (97993-03v) - Pewter(Caution: I have seen fakes of this pin listed on okay.)
H-D 03 Pin - This pin is often overlooked. It was only sold as part of a set with a matching baseball cap and coffee mug. The set was called "Harley '03 Party Pack" and was part #97994-03v.(Caution: I have seen fakes of this pin listed on okay.)
The back of ALL of the above pins are engraved with:
HARLEY-DAVIDSON100th AnniversaryLimited EditionMade in USA
Framed Engine Pin Set (part number) - Limited edition of 2003 numbered sets. (Picture shows inside of frame only. This came in a thick black wooden frame with the 100th logo on it.)
Thanks for stopping by. I hope you'll give me a YES vote below.
Please check my other guides for more Harley 100th Anniversary pins including:
Part 1: Dealer Silver: All sterling silver 100th anniversary pins sold by Harley dealerships.
Part 2: Dealer Miscellaneous: All "non-silver" 100th pins sold by Harley dealerships.
Part 3: Open Road Tour: All Open Road Tour pins (2002-2003).
Part 4: Pin Stop Pins: All 2003 HOG Pin Stop and HOG Hospitality pins.
Part 5: Open House: All 2003 Open House pins.
Part 6: The Ride Home: The 2003 Ride Home pin (and set).
Part 7: The Celebration: Pins from The Celebration in Milwaukee in August 2003.
Part 8: Miscellaneous: Miscellaneous pins from 2003 not listed in previous sections.
Pen Kit Plating Options Guide
There are a wide variety of plating options available on pen kits sold today. Choosing which finish to use for a pen can be difficult and may be based on the wood used, customer preferences, pricing etc. This guide will go over some of the options available. The number in parenthesis is my wear rating from 1 to 5 (least durable to most durable) and is purely my opinion - others may well disagree.
Plating Method:
The first determination of quality is often how the plating is done at the manufacturing plant. Unfortunately, this information is only rarely available. The cheapest kits are plated using the tumbled method of plating, resulting is a thin, uneven inferior coating. The better method is the rack method where parts are separated during plating and results in a much more consistent and durable coating. Most kits sold in the United States today are plated using this method.
Plating Options:
Gold: Still the most gemon plating sold. The quality of gold plating can vary from very poor to excellent, depending on both the way the plating is done and what gebination of gold and other additives are used in the plating process. There also seems to be a wide variation in the color of gold plating that may be related to the manufacturers plating formula and/or some variation ineach batch of plating solution. By it's nature gold is a very soft metal andgold plating regardless of quality will wear off of pen parts over time.
24kt: (0.5) The least wear resistant of any pen plating. Usually is thinly plated with a coating of epoxy over the gold to increase durability.
10kt: (1.5)A gebination of gold and nickel, resulting in a more durable finish.
Cobalt gold (sometimes called upgrade gold): (2.5) 24kt gold with cobalt or palladium added to the plating chemicals. Much more durable than either 10kt or 24kt gold.
Titanium Gold: (4.0) Titaniumnitride is matched to the color of the gold, then plated onto the parts and the 24k gold is sputtered on top of the titanium plating. The gold of this finish still wears off fairly rapidly, but since the titanium beneath the gold matches the gold color, the wear is not noticable.
18kt Rose Gold: (3.0) Plating is an alloy ofgold and copper. The finish has a pinkish cast.
Satin Gold: (2.5) Gold finish with a slightly textured matte surface.
Chrome: (3.5) Bright silver colored chromium finish. Very good durability.
Silver: (2.0) Thin sterling silver plating with an epoxy coating.
Sterling Silver: (4.0) Usually refers to a much thicker silver plating (20 microns instead of 5 microns). Very durable and very expensive. Coated with epoxy to slow the tarnishing of parts.
Satin Pearl: (3.0) Nearly white textured metallic finish.
Platinum or Rhodium: (4.5) These two terms are often used interchangeably. Most manufacturers still call their plating platinum, but usuallyit is actually rhodium (closely related to platinum and part of the platinum group chemically). Platinum is more durable than rhodium, but both arevery durable finishes.
Satin Nickel or Satin Chrome: (3.0) These terms are often used by different manufacturers for the same finish.Grayish in colorwith a slightly textured surface.
Black Titanium: (5.0) This is a titanium oxideplating process.It is very hard and durable and much tougher than titanium nitride and should last a very long time.
Gunmetal: (2.5) Actually a black nickel plating that looks very much like black titanium at a much lower cost, but also less durable.
Black Chrome: (3.0) Chrome and chrome oxides gebined in the plating process, resulting in ashiny blackdurable finish.
Black Enamel: (1.0) Just as it says, a black enamel coating. Similar in appearance to black chrome but with a smooth matte surface.
Tactile: (2.5) Black rubberized textured coating.
Copper: (2.5) Bright copper plating often with some gold added.
Satin Copper: (2.5) Copper plating with a matte, textured surface.
Plating Method:
The first determination of quality is often how the plating is done at the manufacturing plant. Unfortunately, this information is only rarely available. The cheapest kits are plated using the tumbled method of plating, resulting is a thin, uneven inferior coating. The better method is the rack method where parts are separated during plating and results in a much more consistent and durable coating. Most kits sold in the United States today are plated using this method.
Plating Options:
Gold: Still the most gemon plating sold. The quality of gold plating can vary from very poor to excellent, depending on both the way the plating is done and what gebination of gold and other additives are used in the plating process. There also seems to be a wide variation in the color of gold plating that may be related to the manufacturers plating formula and/or some variation ineach batch of plating solution. By it's nature gold is a very soft metal andgold plating regardless of quality will wear off of pen parts over time.
24kt: (0.5) The least wear resistant of any pen plating. Usually is thinly plated with a coating of epoxy over the gold to increase durability.
10kt: (1.5)A gebination of gold and nickel, resulting in a more durable finish.
Cobalt gold (sometimes called upgrade gold): (2.5) 24kt gold with cobalt or palladium added to the plating chemicals. Much more durable than either 10kt or 24kt gold.
Titanium Gold: (4.0) Titaniumnitride is matched to the color of the gold, then plated onto the parts and the 24k gold is sputtered on top of the titanium plating. The gold of this finish still wears off fairly rapidly, but since the titanium beneath the gold matches the gold color, the wear is not noticable.
18kt Rose Gold: (3.0) Plating is an alloy ofgold and copper. The finish has a pinkish cast.
Satin Gold: (2.5) Gold finish with a slightly textured matte surface.
Chrome: (3.5) Bright silver colored chromium finish. Very good durability.
Silver: (2.0) Thin sterling silver plating with an epoxy coating.
Sterling Silver: (4.0) Usually refers to a much thicker silver plating (20 microns instead of 5 microns). Very durable and very expensive. Coated with epoxy to slow the tarnishing of parts.
Satin Pearl: (3.0) Nearly white textured metallic finish.
Platinum or Rhodium: (4.5) These two terms are often used interchangeably. Most manufacturers still call their plating platinum, but usuallyit is actually rhodium (closely related to platinum and part of the platinum group chemically). Platinum is more durable than rhodium, but both arevery durable finishes.
Satin Nickel or Satin Chrome: (3.0) These terms are often used by different manufacturers for the same finish.Grayish in colorwith a slightly textured surface.
Black Titanium: (5.0) This is a titanium oxideplating process.It is very hard and durable and much tougher than titanium nitride and should last a very long time.
Gunmetal: (2.5) Actually a black nickel plating that looks very much like black titanium at a much lower cost, but also less durable.
Black Chrome: (3.0) Chrome and chrome oxides gebined in the plating process, resulting in ashiny blackdurable finish.
Black Enamel: (1.0) Just as it says, a black enamel coating. Similar in appearance to black chrome but with a smooth matte surface.
Tactile: (2.5) Black rubberized textured coating.
Copper: (2.5) Bright copper plating often with some gold added.
Satin Copper: (2.5) Copper plating with a matte, textured surface.
Bullwhip Buyers Guide
Bullwhip Buyers Guide
Having made bullwhips since 1989, I am often asked for my personal opinion about construction, hide selection, lengths, belly construction and other considerations from those mainly interested in sport whip cracking and target work. Bullwhip construction is not rocket science but most would be surprised by the labor intensiveness to make a quality bullwhip. All high quality bullwhips are handmade but not all handmade bullwhips are high quality..... Bullwhips are not toys, yet used with with gemon sense are, simply put...loads of fun. Those that have caught the whip cracking bug (and with practice) find that the whip is a tool unlike any other. It can push, pull, wrap and crack, all with the delicate touch of a hummingbird wing or that of a solid punch.
Buyer considerations:
1) Hide selection: Kangaroo-generally acknowledged as the premier medium. Strand strength 5-7 timesgreater than cowhide of equal strand width and thickness. Roo hide is very durable and streamlined construction (minimal wind resistance) making for a very fast, fluid casting whip. It's only downside as gepared to quality cowhide and latigois that it is less resistant to abuse, ie. being dragged about in the dirt.Cowhide -calf or kip hide is the normal cowhide employed. Some really beautiful whipsare produced in this medium from grade A quality hides. Give cowhide the nod for those that will tend to abuse the tool or for a less costly alternative toKangaroo. Redhide (latigo) - alum tanned hide, extremely durable.Very little latigo work within the U.S. Australian 4 to a max of 8 plait whipstake the nod for sheer abuse resistance. Chap/upholstery/etc. - well,this leather might be servicable for awhile, but I've seldom seen whips made withthis medium touting belly construction.
2) Tannage types: Wattle bark (drum stuffed) - Kangaroo hides (only) to my knowledge.Highest quality hides with superb strand strength and almost nil stretch. Very fine plaited whips, 24-plait plus can be constructed from this medium but the norm is 12/16 plait. Hides are heavily greased out of the tannery and strands even after soaping (plaiting soap) do not have the sheen thatvegetable tanned hide strands achieve and the normal practice by whipmakers is to apply alight layer of leather lacquer to the finished whip (thong) to acquire a glossy finish. Vegetable - not all vegetable tanned hides are created equal but most are tight fibered, durable. Whip thongs that hold up extremely wellas long as the strands have been soaped and stretched during construction and this is just standard practice amongst quality whipmakers. Vegetable stranded bullwhips have a nice shiney finish and are easily maintained/moisturized with a coat of a good grade hard wax. Chrome - tanned hides for both Kangaroo and Cowhide are generally less desirable due to its stretchiness.
3) Belly construction:Separates the men from theboys. Literally, belly's arefully functional plaited whips within a whip. An old saying by Australian whipmakers is "no guts, no good". This is where you have to trust your whipmaker as to their veracityof claims as to belly/bolstering construction. You can't very well cut the whip in halfto verify the stated claims, well, you could, but... Belly construction can range from a single (plaited) belly to as many as three. A single belly is normally a tapered 4 or 6-strand. Double bellied whips generally are 4
Having made bullwhips since 1989, I am often asked for my personal opinion about construction, hide selection, lengths, belly construction and other considerations from those mainly interested in sport whip cracking and target work. Bullwhip construction is not rocket science but most would be surprised by the labor intensiveness to make a quality bullwhip. All high quality bullwhips are handmade but not all handmade bullwhips are high quality..... Bullwhips are not toys, yet used with with gemon sense are, simply put...loads of fun. Those that have caught the whip cracking bug (and with practice) find that the whip is a tool unlike any other. It can push, pull, wrap and crack, all with the delicate touch of a hummingbird wing or that of a solid punch.
Buyer considerations:
1) Hide selection: Kangaroo-generally acknowledged as the premier medium. Strand strength 5-7 timesgreater than cowhide of equal strand width and thickness. Roo hide is very durable and streamlined construction (minimal wind resistance) making for a very fast, fluid casting whip. It's only downside as gepared to quality cowhide and latigois that it is less resistant to abuse, ie. being dragged about in the dirt.Cowhide -calf or kip hide is the normal cowhide employed. Some really beautiful whipsare produced in this medium from grade A quality hides. Give cowhide the nod for those that will tend to abuse the tool or for a less costly alternative toKangaroo. Redhide (latigo) - alum tanned hide, extremely durable.Very little latigo work within the U.S. Australian 4 to a max of 8 plait whipstake the nod for sheer abuse resistance. Chap/upholstery/etc. - well,this leather might be servicable for awhile, but I've seldom seen whips made withthis medium touting belly construction.
2) Tannage types: Wattle bark (drum stuffed) - Kangaroo hides (only) to my knowledge.Highest quality hides with superb strand strength and almost nil stretch. Very fine plaited whips, 24-plait plus can be constructed from this medium but the norm is 12/16 plait. Hides are heavily greased out of the tannery and strands even after soaping (plaiting soap) do not have the sheen thatvegetable tanned hide strands achieve and the normal practice by whipmakers is to apply alight layer of leather lacquer to the finished whip (thong) to acquire a glossy finish. Vegetable - not all vegetable tanned hides are created equal but most are tight fibered, durable. Whip thongs that hold up extremely wellas long as the strands have been soaped and stretched during construction and this is just standard practice amongst quality whipmakers. Vegetable stranded bullwhips have a nice shiney finish and are easily maintained/moisturized with a coat of a good grade hard wax. Chrome - tanned hides for both Kangaroo and Cowhide are generally less desirable due to its stretchiness.
3) Belly construction:Separates the men from theboys. Literally, belly's arefully functional plaited whips within a whip. An old saying by Australian whipmakers is "no guts, no good". This is where you have to trust your whipmaker as to their veracityof claims as to belly/bolstering construction. You can't very well cut the whip in halfto verify the stated claims, well, you could, but... Belly construction can range from a single (plaited) belly to as many as three. A single belly is normally a tapered 4 or 6-strand. Double bellied whips generally are 4
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