Your RV Series: Roof Maintenance

While an RV's electrical system is the most important geponent of an RV, an RV's roof is the most important part of the "shell" or structure of an RV.
An RV's roof is designed to acgeplish several things... Much like the roof on a house, it is built to withstand the weather year around. Wind, rain, hail, flying debris, snow, ice, and more. It also must withstand sustained 90 to 100 mile-an-hour"hurricane-force" winds. (Like driving at 65 MPH into a 30 MPH Head-wind.)
An inspection of your RV's roof twice a year will help insure it continues to work as it should. The lack of bi-annual inspections could lead to water leaks, which if undetected, could cause major damage elsewhere. Further, roof inspections should be done immediately after a moderate hail storm or wind storm where large objects such as tree branches or flying debris , have contacted the roof.
As an RV Tech, I have seen one and two year old RVs with split and curled vinyl flooring, (water soaked in between the vinyl and sub floor and then froze), extensive sidewall delamination, interior wall and cabinet warpage and electrical damage due to undetected water leaks originating from where else?...The roof. It's a cryin' shame too.... as there are many RV Extended Warranty plans that do not cover structural damage. (Check your Warranty policy out real good before buying it.) By the time you notice the damage on the inside (water stains, warped cabinets, swelling frame work, etc.) it may be too late. I won'tgo into detail aboutthe health problems associated with the resulting mold and mildew in the walls and carpet.
RV Roofs are finished with different materials. My favorite is the Rubber (EP Membrane) Roof. It requires little maintenance and will hold up a lot better in bad weather. Other RV Roof finishes include aluminum sheet, galvanized steel sheet, fiberglass, and others. Knowing what kind of roof you have on your RV is important. If you have to repair it, choosing the right kind of sealant is paramount. Choosing the wrong kind of sealant could be very costly and prove devastating! (More about that later.)
Lets get started with our inspection:
Just a note: Your RV's roof should be designed to be able to carry your weight.... PERIOD! If it won't support your weight, that makes it harder to do a roof inspection, let alone holding an air conditioner and/or a foot or two of wet Colorado Snow! Aside from seriously considering thepurchase ofanother RV... This point is very important! Imyself am onebig hoss... My rule is, If I can't get in it, under it, around it, or on top of it... I don't want it. Think about it... If the roof can't support your weight, then why did the factory ever put a ladder on the back of your RV if you can't use it? (This is a real good point to consider when buying an RV too!)
Anyhow, Grab an ink pen and a piece of paper and get up on the roof on all fours and crawl around on it. Be careful not to get too close to the edge. As you're crawling around on your hands and knees, look and feel for soft "mushy" spots. (OnSOME of the less expensive RV's with Styrofoam core vacuum-bonded roofs, this may be "normal"... Its not necessarily good but, it's "normal".) Go around the edges of the roof first and then work your way through the middle. Also make a mental note of where the dirt settles after themoisture orwater on the roof evaporates. It will gemonly be in the corners and around the edges of the roof. If there is evidence of dirt in the middle of the roof, perhaps between two roof frame supports or around the area where the air conditioner is mounted, this may indicate trouble down the road. Make an appointment with your RV repair shop for a second opinion. Next, check the sealant around all roof vents, vent caps, antenna, sattelite dish, roof rack, ladder, sky lights, etc., as well as around the perimeter of the roof. If you see ANY cracking (openings where dirt may have settled... seen as afine dark line) or separation of the sealant, it must be re-sealed as soon as possible. Even if the crack is small... Even if you are unsure that you are even looking at a crack... RE SEAL IT! If your RV is still under warranty, contact your RV Servicing Dealer to see if it will be covered before doing the work yourself.The same holds true for slide-out roofs.
Choosing the right sealant for the right roof:
Once you get the right kind of sealant, stick with it. Don't mix and match sealants. It will lead to nothing but T-R-O-U-B-L-E.
PLEASE... UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE SILICONE ON ANY TYPE OF RV ROOF! Don't feel bad if you've done that before... The reason why I even mentioned it is because you are not alone! It happens way too often not to make mention of it. Silicone might be good for some things but it acgeplishes absolutely nothing as an RV roof sealant.

For Rubber roofs, use a rubber roof sealant such as Dicor.(Pronounced "Die-Core")
For Metal roofs use a self-leveling sealant such as C-10.
For fiberglass roofs use Silaprene or geparable product.
Insure you clean the area to be sealed and/or caulked before you start. DoNOT use petroleum based solvents to prepare the roof for sealant. It will leave a film that the sealant will not adhere to. Instead,a rag with some Rubbing or Denatured alcohol works best. If the roof is real dirty, spray it off with water from a garden hose and let it gepletely dry overnight before using the alcohol. If your RV's roof has got layer upon layer of just about everything under the sun... silicone, fibered black tar, some sort of roll-on reflective roof paint, duct tape, and what not, it will all have to be removed before properly re-sealing.
Sealing the roof:
Most sealants geein caulk gun tubes. After the crackshave been spotted and prepped for sealant, we are now ready to seal. Pick a nice sunny day to seal your roof... Not too cold, not too hot. THIS NEXT PART IS IMPORTANT! Lay a THIN line ofsealant over the defect and, using a small circular motion with your fingertip, RUB THE SEALANT gently into the crack. (You can use arubber glove of some kind if you want but,I've found that some sealants will eventually eat through the fingertip of the glove so I just use my finger and savethe glove for changing waste water valves.) The gentle rubbing of the sealant into the crack is to insure no air bubbles remain in the cracks. After this is done, go over thesame crack with another THIN bead ofsealant to cover it. Less is better! Take your time and do it right. Go to the next one and repeat the process until all of the cracks
are sealed. These steps will save you time, money and damage to your RV!
Following the above instructions is important, especially on a rubber roof. Some RV Owners have reported that they had bought several tubes of Dicor to seal seams on a rubber roof and just put down one or two heavy beads.. without working it in as instructed above. The rubber roof material reacted to the excessive Dicor seam sealant and got "wavy" along the application surfaces. It will eventually lay down nearly flat. Use only what is needed to seal the seam. Too much sealant takes longer to cure and will make future inspections/repairs harder.Recap: 1) INSPECT THE ROOF 2) PREPARE THE SURFACE INSURING IT IS DRY AND CLEAN 3) SEAL THE SURFACES USING THE APPROPRIATE SEALER 4) ALLOW TO CURE PER MANUFACTURES INSTRUCTIONSIf there are any RV related questions, gements, or you need help with something, drop me a line at hglpd1@bresnan.netNote: If you found this guide helpful, please take the time to click the box below.Thanks for reading!